Decorative zippers: how do you sew them on?

Dear users, dear authors,
do you have any tips for sewing on decorative zippers ? Why do some pieces of clothing sometimes have decorative zippers instead of proper pockets?
Does anyone have anything to say about this?

RV = zipper
A decorative zipper is just as much a decorative element as, for example, buttons, bows, appliqués, or badges. However, there are also decorative zippers that can be used like a normal zipper; these zippers might have lace on the sides, for instance. I suspect this is just a passing fad, like so many others we’ve seen—eventually, they’ll disappear again.  Personally, I don’t really like these decorative zippers at all, but like so many things, it’s purely a matter of taste—and we have a great saying here about that: “The cat likes to eat mice, but I don’t like them at all ;-) :-)))))))”

Best regards, Inge

Dear Josefa,

I also think that’s just fashionable nonsense that you don’t really need. I’d prefer sturdy zippers made of good material. Who actually enjoys sewing in new zippers? And in a leather jacket, for example, it gets even more expensive.

But the other day, I was searching online for an elastic zipper. They really do exist. It can stretch up to 10% beyond its length. However, they’re only available up to 80 cm, and that was too short for me.

Best regards, Ina

Elastic zippers? You see all kinds of things. What are they used for?

Take sportswear, for example—if it’s made of stretchy material, the zipper has to stretch too, otherwise it doesn’t make sense. But I was looking for one for my sitting ball cover. I crocheted two halves and joined them together. To make the cover washable, I had to add a zipper covering 60% of the ball’s circumference. And since you can inflate the ball to varying degrees of firmness, I wanted an elastic zipper that would stretch with it. But since that kind of zipper isn’t available in that length—and it would have been too expensive for me anyway—I found another solution.

OK, thanks for the info.
Would you like to share what solution you found?

The zipper goes around 60% of the ball’s circumference (you use a continuous zipper, which can be adjusted to the required length), and the rest is sewn or crocheted together. The stitches naturally stretch a little. So over the remaining 40% of the ball’s circumference, there are stitches, which can easily amount to 80 cm. Over that length, the stretch in the stitches is enough to adapt the ball cover to the particular ball.

This solution clearly has a price advantage, because continuous zippers are very inexpensive. They come on a roll, and you cut off the length you need. Add an end stop at the front and back, plus a zipper pull, and the zipper is ready.

Best regards, Ina

@Akela
Personally, I think a zipper has to serve a purpose; otherwise, I don’t need one.

@Ina,
I’ve learned something new again—thanks.

See, Josefa, that makes two of us already :-)

Best regards, Inge

Exactly :-)
Would you like to say something about the leather / PU leather topic? I’d really like that.
Leather / PU leather / leather alternatives: care + handling tips

I haven’t worked with real leather yet, because that could potentially ruin my sewing machine. Real leather is too dense for a normal sewing machine; you’d really need a special machine or a sewing machine with a powerful motor.
I’ve worked with faux leather or washable leather quite often; it sews well, but with these types of leather you should always make sure you have a Teflon presser foot for sewing. It glides easily over the material without slowing down or creating unsightly wrinkles because the foot gets too warm, not to say too hot, and drags.
I once sewed myself a pantsuit out of black faux leather; that was a good 30 years ago now. In the end, it looked like one of my daughters had grabbed the trousers and the other the jacket. Oh, and faux leather should be cared for by wiping it with a damp cloth and rubbing it dry; that is usually enough. For more stubborn stains, wash it with a mild detergent. Dip a soft cloth into the water with the mild detergent and then wipe the faux leather with it; don’t bathe it in it, faux leather really doesn’t like that. Rinse the cloth well with tap water and then use it to wipe away the detergent residue.
Washable leather can be washed, as the name suggests: add a little washable-leather detergent to lukewarm water, place the item in it and let it soak a little, then rinse well and leave it to air dry, preferably lying flat.
Avoid grease and the like on both types of leather, because it causes ugly stains; a damp cloth, even baby wipes, is always better for cleaning.
Real leather needs completely different care, because if it isn’t cared for, it becomes hard and brittle and looks unattractive. There are special leather needles for sewing leather; they have a triangular point at the tip, so the needle cuts through the leather better than a round conventional machine needle. So if you do sew it, put a leather needle in the machine. My father always said the best leather care is to treat it with Balistol. You’ll have to Google Balistol; it’s a really great product, doesn’t leave grease stains and smells very pleasant. Spray it onto the leather, rub it in well with a soft cloth and let it dry. Well-cared-for leather will thank you by lasting a very long time and bringing you joy.

Best regards, Inge

There’s really a lot to keep in mind.

@Inge,
I mentioned your info on leather / faux leather, etc. over in the other thread.
Leather / PU leather / leather alternatives: care + handling tips

That’s fine, Josefa :-)

Best regards, Inge

OK :-)