Knitting Double-Faced Fabric: The Most Important Edge Techniques, Simply Explained

Mixed Two-Colour Long-Tail Cast-On

Simple Double Cast-On

Invisible Cast-On

Placing your index finger there prevents the two double stitches from switching places at the last moment.

The colours in each double stitch are arranged in the same order on the needle.

For each double stitch you need, cast on two stitches, then add two edge stitches.

Formula:

Cast-on stitches = (number of double stitches × 2) + 2 edge stitches = (2 × 2 double stitches)

Example:

For 10 double stitches, you need 20 stitches. With 4 additional edge stitches, you cast on a total of 24 stitches.

Knit the first stitch as indicated (purl or knit). Then knit the remaining stitches in alternating patterns: 1 purl, 1 knit, 1 purl, 1 knit, and so on, until you reach the last stitch. Knit the last stitch as well.

To start the second colour, pull the new thread through the first loop. Be sure to leave a sufficiently long tail. This tail should be carefully sewn off once the project is finished.

Knit the first double-face row using the standard double-face technique. To do this, knit all knit stitches with the foreground colour and all purl stitches with the background colour.

Tie the two threads together securely by tying a knot.

Place one of the two threads over the index finger of your left hand and the other thread over the thumb of your left hand. Hold both threads firmly with the remaining fingers of your left hand so that they do not slip and remain taut. Hold the knotted ends of the threads with your right hand so that both threads are slightly taut.

1. Hold the knitting needle in your right hand.

2. Pass the needle under the green thread on your left thumb.

3. Then move the needle toward your left index finger.

4.  Pass the needle over the white thread on your index finger.

5. Use the knitting needle to loop the white thread around your index finger and pull it under the green thread on your thumb. This creates a new white loop on the knitting needle.

6. Guide the needle under the white thread on the index finger of your left hand.

7. Then move the needle toward the thumb of your left hand.

8. Guide the needle over the green thread on your thumb.

9. Loop the green thread around your thumb with the knitting needle and pull it under the white thread on your thumb. This creates a new green loop on the knitting needle.

Repeat steps 2 through 9 until you have the desired number of double stitches on the needle

Turn the work over

Make sure the two working strands are crossed over each other before you start knitting. This prevents the last loop formed on the needle from unraveling.

Take the second knitting needle and knit the edge stitch first. Then continue working using the usual double-face technique. In the first row, all green knit stitches are knitted through the back loop.

Mixed Two-Colour Lifted Edge Stitch

Solid-Colour Lifted Edge Stitch

Invisible Edge Stitch

The first double stitch is purled with both strands at the same time.

The last double stitch is slipped with both strands at the same time, as if knitting.

Slip the green stitch at the end of the row with both working strands behind the work, as if to purl.

Place the white working thread in front of the work.

Pick up the white stitch as if knitting purl.

This is what the edge stitch looks like from the side.

This is what the edge stitch looks like from above.

Turn the work over

Knit the first white stitch.

Next, wrap the two working strands around each other and purl the first green stitch. Continue knitting the row using the usual double-face technique until the end of the row.

Knit the row using the usual double-faced technique up to and including the last two stitches.

Cross the two working threads over each other.

Turn the work over

Knit the first white stitch. Make sure the white working yarn is wrapped around the green working yarn.

Place both working threads in front of your work.

Purl the first green stitch. Continue knitting the row using the usual double-face technique until the end of the row.

Mixed Two-Colour Cast-Off

Single-Color Cast-Off

Invisible Cast-Off

Pick up the first two double stitches (each consisting of a front and a back stitch) together and knit them together with both working strands as if to purl. Knit the next double stitch in the same way.

Using the left needle, lift the first knitted stitch over the second stitch and let it slide off the needle.

Knit the first front stitch with the working yarn.

Recommendation: Use the same color as when casting on.

Knit the next purl stitch with the same working yarn on the back side.

Now there are two stitches on the right needle.

Lift the first stitch over the second and let it slide off the needle

Continue this pattern—knit the front-side stitches, purl the back-side stitches, and slip the previous stitch over each time—until the end of the row.

Pick up the stitches from the front and back sections of the work onto two different double-pointed needles

Cut the working yarn, leaving a tail that is about three times the current width of the knitted piece

Thread the long end of the yarn into a yarn needle.

1. Using the yarn needle, insert it from back to front (as if knitting purl) through the first stitch on the front knitting needle and pull the yarn all the way through.

2. Next, using the wool needle, insert the needle from front to back (as if knitting) through the first stitch on the back needle and pull the yarn all the way through.

3. Insert the wool needle again from the front to the back (as if knitting) through the first stitch on the front needle…

4. … and slide this stitch off the knitting needle.

5. Insert the wool needle from back to front (in the same direction as when knitting purl stitches) through the next stitch on the front needle, and pull the yarn all the way through.

6. Using the wool needle, insert it from the back to the front (from back to front, as when knitting purl stitches) into the first stitch on the back needle again. Then let this stitch slide off the needle.

7. Insert the wool needle from front to back (in the same direction as when knitting) through the next stitch on the back needle and pull the yarn all the way through.

8. Insert the wool needle again from the front to the back (as if knitting) through the first stitch on the front needle…

9. … and slide this stitch off the knitting needle.

Repeat steps 5 through 9 until all stitches have been casted off.

Edge Technique

Application

1. Mixed Two-Colour Long-Tail Cast-On
2. Mixed Two-Colour Lifted Edge Stitch
3. Mixed Two-Colour Cast-Off

When you want the edges to retain their shape or when they’ll be subjected to greater mechanical stress. Examples:

1. Scarves and shawls with a distinct rectangular shape: A sturdy hem prevents the edges from curling or stretching.
2. Jackets, coats, and vests: Front edges, hems, and collars benefit from added stability so the garment hangs neatly.
3. Blankets and pillowcases: Sturdy edges ensure a uniform shape and reduce stretching.
4. Bags and pouches: Here, sturdy edges increase durability and improve shape retention.
5. Potholders and coasters: The edges are frequently subjected to wear and tear and should be sturdy.
6. Hats with a turned-up brim or structured shape: Depending on the design, a firm edge can help maintain the desired silhouette.

• Simple Double Cast-On
• Solid-Colour Lifted Edge Stitch
• Single-Color Cast-Off

When softness, flexibility, or a decorative effect are more important than maximum dimensional stability. Typical examples include:

1. Scarves and loop scarves with a soft drape: A loose edge enhances the fabric’s suppleness and prevents the edges from looking stiff.
2. Triangular shawls, shoulder shawls, and stoles: Here, a decorative edge can emphasize the design and give the knitted piece an elegant finish.
3. Baby blankets and children’s blankets: Soft edges feel more comfortable and avoid harsh transitions.
4. Throws and home blankets: A loose edge allows the blanket to drape more naturally and can serve as a design element.
5. Decorative wall hangings or table runners: Here, the visual appeal is often the main focus, so scalloped, picot, or lace edges really stand out.
6. Lightweight tops or ponchos: If a flowing drape is desired, a border that’s too tight often looks distracting.

• Invisible Cast-On
• Invisible Edge Stitch
• Invisible Cast-Off

When the edge should be as unobtrusive as possible and attention should be drawn to the reversible pattern or colour scheme. It is particularly suitable for projects in which the edge is not intended to stand out as a design element in its own right.

Typical applications:

1. Double-faced scarves and loops with a continuous pattern extending to the edge. The edge appears clean without forming a visible border.
2. Reversible shawls and stoles where both sides are meant to be equally prominent.
3. Double-faced blankets, when a subtle, fabric-like edge is desired instead of a prominent finish.
4. Illustrations, lettering, or graphic patterns in double-faced knitting. An invisible edge prevents the border from visually framing the motif.
5. Test pieces and swatches where the edge design should not interfere with the actual pattern.
6. Garments with facings or bound edges that will be sewn on later, since the edge stitch then simply forms a neat working edge.