Sewing box pleats

Dear users, dear authors,
what do you need box pleats for? Are they difficult to sew?

A box pleat needs to be calculated precisely, and you also have to think carefully about where to place it and where it won’t fit at all. When cutting out the fabric, you should already factor in the extra fabric needed for the box pleat. Years ago, I sewed a coat for my middle daughter—ankle-length with a button-in winter lining. The coat itself was made of dark blue poplin and had a hood. At the back, I sewed in a 20-centimeter-deep box pleat. The coat was an absolute showstopper; everywhere she went wearing it, people asked her where she’d gotten the coat. But I never sewed that coat again, because back then it took me almost 6 weeks to finish it, since I was also working at the time.
A box pleat also looks quite nice on a skirt, though unfortunately it’s not really in style anymore. You can also add small box pleats to the front of a blouse, especially if you want it to drape loosely and airily, but the pleat should never be more than 2.5–3 cm wide—otherwise, it’ll just make you look bulkier. There are also bags where you can sew in a box pleat, but you should make sure it matches the style.

Best regards, Inge

This isn't for beginners.
How long does it take to get the hang of it?

It depends on how skilled you are. During my training, there were girls who had it down after the third try, while others needed 14 days; I was somewhere in between. You have to measure very carefully and it’s better to use 10 extra pins than too few—otherwise the whole thing starts to slip, and then you have to start all over again :-)

Best regards, Inge

Oh wow.
What do you actually do during your training with the fabric scraps or practice projects that didn’t turn out so great?
Can you still make something out of them?

I don’t know what became of them, because my training took place in Schweinfurt through the Aschaffenburg School of Clothing Design—my master tailor would drive to Schweinfurt every day. As far as I know, the ones that turned out okay went to a children’s home, but I have no idea what happened to the ones that didn’t turn out right. After all, I didn’t train in the trade, but as an industrial seamstress for women’s outerwear. My oldest daughter, on the other hand, trained as a women’s tailor in the trade—that’s a world of difference, which you really wouldn’t think. Since I was doing the whole thing as a career changer, I had the opportunity after my apprenticeship to take a pattern-making course, which I naturally took advantage of. My daughter would join me when she was done with work or after vocational school—that was arranged between our instructors. Because both of us—my daughter and I—were learning our trades at the same time back in the ’80s. It was funny back then when we registered at vocational school—both our instructors knew that a mother and daughter were sitting there, but they didn’t say anything to the teacher. When I was called up first to provide my information, it was still okay, but when it was my daughter’s turn and the teacher said, “Have your mom sign this,” my daughter’s instructor said, “We’ll take care of that right away—come on over and sign it, and then it’s done.” The look on the teacher’s face was absolutely priceless.

Love, Inge

You’re having fun :-)
What did you do for a living before your tailoring apprenticeship?

I used to work as a waitress in the restaurant industry, but that’s when my back and legs started giving out, and I couldn’t stand all day anymore. So this retraining program came at just the right time, and the best part was that back in school, I was one of the worst students in needlework :-), I didn’t enjoy it because the needlework teacher was a real pain in the neck—a total nightmare. And then I decided to train as a seamstress. I can still hear my mom laughing today when I told her, but she was the first to say, “Inge, could you sew me a skirt or a blouse, etc.?” :-)

Best regards, Inge

Congratulations on your perseverance.

I love box pleats!
Personally, I find sewing them much easier than knitting or crocheting them.
I’ve written a (free) pattern for sewing box pleats that many people—including plenty who describe themselves as sewing beginners—have successfully followed.

Box pleats are very decorative and add volume…
For example, you can use them to jazz up a simple dress and turn it into a “real twirl dress,” which both little girls and older girls absolutely love.
Cosmetic bags with box pleats are also a great option. They give the bag a unique look and provide plenty of storage space.

I recommend this to anyone who hasn’t dared to try it yet: give it a shot! It sounds harder than it is!

Best regards, Nina

I really like box pleats—they’re a great way to spice up a simple pattern.
In this dress, for example, even the patch pockets have box pleats, which makes them a real eye-catcher.
Ever since I discovered sewing for myself, I’ve enjoyed experimenting with details like these.

May I ask where I can find your pattern for box pleats?!

@Silke - do you mean me?
Best regards

Available as a free pattern in my shop