Problematic fabrics include velvet, for example, because it has a nap direction—depending on how you stroke it, it appears either matte or shiny. If you’re not careful, you’ll end up with two different directions in your pants, jacket, or skirt. Also, because of the pile height, beginners can have trouble keeping the fabric aligned precisely when they start sewing.
It’s similar with terry cloth—you have to be very careful there, just like with some types of plush fabric.
Then there are thin fabrics like voile, organza, silk, and sometimes jersey. With jersey, it’s also the fabric’s stretch that can be a problem.
To sew thin fabrics properly without them sliding back and forth under the presser foot, there’s a very simple trick: place a strip of white greaseproof paper or baking parchment on top of the fabric under the presser foot—make sure it’s white so you can see where you’re sewing. This prevents the fabric from slipping, and if you’re worried that the machine might “eat” the fabric, you can also place a strip of the same paper under the fabric, directly on the needle plate, and sew—it’s best to pin it in place a little. This way, your sewing glides smoothly under the presser foot and can be sewn without wrinkles or creases. The paper peels off easily after sewing.
It’s best to use a zigzag stitch—and if your machine has it, the three-step zigzag stitch (that’s the zigzag with the dashed lines)—but make sure it doesn’t get too wide. Today’s machines are all pretty good at this; you can make the stitch size smaller or larger. You can also do what you do with thin fabrics and put some greaseproof paper in between, just to be on the safe side.
Thanks. That’s the problem—I sew almost everything by hand and only have a tiny sewing machine that can only sew straight stitches with one stitch length.
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