Knitting Machine Practical Guide #1: Projects, Yarn Choice & Limitations

I use the Addi King Size myself and at the beginning I thought the machine would simply make normal knitting faster. But that is not really how it works.

It can make knitted fabric very fast, yes. But you are limited to what the machine can actually produce: a tube or a flat piece.

For some projects that is perfect. Hats and loops are very easy to make this way. With clothes, you have to think a little more about the construction because the machine does not shape the pieces for you.

I also noticed that the yarn is much more important than I expected.

With some yarns I can just start cranking and everything runs smoothly. Other yarns keep getting stuck or don't feed evenly through the machine. Then the stitches can look different too.

So if something does not work, I would not immediately blame the machine. I would always test another yarn first.

In this post I want to show you what works well with a knitting machine, where the limits are and what you should know before starting a bigger project.

How does it work?

The Addi King Size, Sentro and similar machines are round knitting machines with a hand crank.

You feed the yarn through a small guide and start turning the handle. As you crank, the needles inside move up and down one after another and catch the yarn.

With every turn, a new row starts to form.

I can use the machine in two ways: either continuously in the round for a tube, or back and forth when I want a flat piece.

While cranking, I mostly watch the yarn.

It should unwind freely from the ball. If it keeps catching somewhere and I have to pull it loose, I can usually see the difference in the fabric afterwards.

I also don’t try to crank as fast as possible. For me, the result is better when I keep a fairly steady speed.

There are a few machines you will come across quite often.

The one I use is the Addi King Size with 46 needles.

The Addi is not exactly cheap. I usually see it somewhere between €115 and €140, depending on the shop.

The Sentro with 48 needles is cheaper and also very common. You can often find it for around €70 to €80.

Another option is the Prym Knitting Mill MAXI. With the Prym, you get 44 stitches in the round and 40 when working flat.

The basic principle is the same with all three.

There are still differences, of course. Some run more smoothly, some feel a little sturdier and the accessories can be different too.

But I would not choose a machine based on the number of needles alone.

For me, the more important question is what I actually want to make with it.

A larger machine works well for hats, cowls or other bigger tubes. If I mainly wanted to make very small pieces, I would probably choose a smaller machine instead.

Typical projects: What works well with a knitting machine

The biggest advantage of a knitting machine is the speed. Once everything is set up properly, you can make a lot of even knitted fabric in a fairly short time.

For me, it works best for projects with a simple construction or projects where the final shape only comes together afterwards.

That is why the King Size is useful when I need more than one similar piece, for example for gifts or projects I make again and again.

Tube projects

Cowls and infinity scarves work really well because you can build up the length quickly and the stitches stay very even.

Hats are another good project. I usually make a tube in the length I need and close the top afterwards, for example by gathering it.

Sleeves are possible too. That works especially well for vests or jackets that are made from several separate pieces.

Wrist warmers also work with the King Size. If I wanted them very narrow and close-fitting, I would probably use a smaller machine, but it is not absolutely necessary.

A tube this long takes me around 10 to 15 minutes, depending on how much practice I have.

Flat knitting (panels)

Scarves and wider wraps also work well as flat panels. I would use a smooth yarn for this, because it usually runs through the machine without much trouble.

For blankets or throws, I would make several long strips and sew them together afterwards. Mattress stitch works well for joining them.

Cushion covers and bags are another good option. You can either make them as a tube or work with two flat panels.

With projects like these, the exact fit is not as important as it is with clothing, which makes them quite good for beginners.

Using leftover yarn

Another thing I like about the knitting machine is that it is really useful for leftover yarn.

For hats, cowls or scarf panels, I can simply change colours while working. Even small leftover balls are enough to add a few stripes or a larger block of colour.

That way, I can actually use yarn that would otherwise stay in the box for ages.

And because the stitches from the machine are so even, the colours still look quite clean together.

Yarn choice: what works well, what can be more difficult and what to watch out for

I didn’t expect the yarn to make such a big difference when I first used the knitting machine. The machine itself always moves in the same way, but some yarns simply run through it much better than others.

For the beginning, I would choose a yarn that is fairly smooth and even. I usually get on well with acrylic and wool blends, especially in a medium or slightly thicker weight. Merino can work too, but I would avoid anything very fluffy at first.

People often use the recommended needle size as a rough guide. Around 4 to 8 mm is a common range, but I would not rely on that alone.

I only use that as a rough guide though.

I usually prefer to test the yarn directly on the machine.

If I can crank a few rows without the yarn catching and the stitches look even, I know I can use it for the project. A quick test is usually enough to see that.

One thing that is easy to underestimate is how much the yarn can change the finished size.

The number of needles still decides the basic circumference of the tube, of course. Even so, two yarns can give me quite different results.

With thicker yarn, I often get a denser fabric that does not stretch as much. On a beanie, that can make quite a noticeable difference in the fit.

A thinner or more elastic yarn can behave completely differently and give much more when you wear it.

That is why I do not only look at the number of rows when I make beanies. I also look at how the yarn behaves once it is knitted.

If I want to make the same size again later, I would try to use the same yarn. Otherwise, I would make a short test piece first and measure it.

This gets a little more difficult with yarns that do not run smoothly through the machine.

Very fluffy yarn can create more friction and may get caught in the guide or on the hooks.

I would also be careful with effect yarns. Bobbles, loops or big changes in thickness can make the yarn feed unevenly, and that usually shows in the finished fabric quite quickly.

Very thin yarn can be tricky too, especially at the beginning. The loops are not always as stable and, depending on the yarn, the needles may not catch every stitch properly.

You can work with two strands or add a second yarn to make thin yarn easier to use. But I would only do that once I am a little more familiar with the machine.

A few things I watch while cranking

Before I use a yarn for a bigger project, I normally give it a quick test on the machine first. A few rows are usually enough for me.

If the yarn comes off the ball without any pulling or catching and the fabric looks even, I can keep going. If I already have problems during those first few rows, I would rather switch to another yarn before starting the actual project.

Once I start cranking, I mostly watch how the yarn is running.

I don’t want to keep pulling more yarn from the ball or correcting it every few turns. It should feed into the machine without much help from me.

I also try to keep roughly the same rhythm while cranking. I don’t have to be extremely slow, but constantly speeding up and slowing down usually doesn’t give me the nicest result.

What to pay attention to when using a knitting machine

The yarn tension is probably the thing I pay the most attention to.

I don’t pull the yarn tight. I let it run through the guide without putting too much tension on it. A bowl or yarn holder helps, because then I don’t have to keep stopping when the ball rolls away or the yarn gets caught.

I also try not to change my speed too much while cranking. Going really fast and then suddenly slowing down usually shows in the fabric afterwards.

I take a little more time with the first few rows as well.

If the first row is prepared properly, the fabric can pull down evenly from the start. This is especially important when I work flat, because the side edges are a bit more sensitive.

Limits and disadvantages of knitting machines

A knitting machine is fast, but I would not see it as a replacement for hand knitting.

It is simply made for a different kind of work.

The machine can produce even knitted fabric very quickly, but that also comes with a few limits.

Limits

The biggest one for me is shaping.

What comes off the machine is basically either a tube or a flat piece. Things like a fitted waist, sleeve shaping, raglan lines or a proper neckline still need some extra work.

Clothes are definitely possible, but I would usually plan them in separate pieces and put everything together afterwards. Some parts may still need to be finished by hand.

Patterns are another area where the machine has its limits.

The machine is best at plain, even knitting. More complicated stitch patterns or textured designs are possible only to a certain degree, and they usually need some extra work.

The fixed width is another point to keep in mind.

Disadvantages in everyday use

The machine may knit fast, but the finishing still has to be done by hand.

I still need to take care of the edges, seams and cuffs, or sew several panels together. That part can make a big difference to how the finished project looks.

The machine also needs a bit of space and a stable surface. Depending on where I use it, it is not exactly quiet either.

If I work with it for a longer time, I can feel the movement in my wrist and forearm. At the same time, this kind of cranking can be easier for some people than holding knitting needles for a long time, for example with arthritis or limited movement in the hands.

The price is another point I would think about before buying one.

The King Size is quite an investment, so for me it only makes sense if I actually use it for the kinds of projects it is good at.

If I mainly wanted to knit very delicate patterns by hand and only needed plain knitted fabric from time to time, I probably would not use the machine enough.

Conclusion: who a knitting machine is useful for – and who may not need one

For me, a knitting machine makes the most sense when I want to make simple, even knitted pieces quickly.

That can be hats, cowls, scarves, blanket panels, bags or cushion covers.

It also works well if I do not mind putting the pieces together afterwards. The machine makes the fabric, but I still have to turn it into the finished project.

I also think it can be a good option for people who find normal knitting needles difficult to hold for longer periods.

Another advantage is the speed.

If I want to make several warm basics, for example hats, scarves or simple cowls, I can finish them much faster than by hand.

This can also be useful for donation projects. Leftover yarn can be used up at the same time, and several simple pieces can be made without spending weeks on them.

For anything that is going to be donated, I would choose yarn that is sturdy, easy to wash and not too delicate.

If you mainly enjoy hand knitting itself, very detailed stitch patterns or very fitted clothes, a knitting machine will probably not replace that.

But if you know what the machine is good at, the King Size can be a really useful addition.

For me, its biggest strengths are speed and even stitches. The limits are mainly shaping and more complicated patterns.

That’s everything I wanted to cover about the knitting machine for now.

If you have tried one yourself and found something that works especially well – or not at all – you can write it in the comments. I’m always curious about other experiences.