A Scary and Cute Zombie Monster. How much scary and how much cute you end up with is entirely up to you — you’ll discover that as your little monster comes to life. But this is definitely a project where you can let yourself be wonderfully messy and delightfully careless! The less perfect, the better — that’s exactly how you can create a truly hideous little monster. 😊 This is one of those rare cases where the scarier it looks, the more successful your result is! The doll is built entirely around a wire frame, so she can stand securely on her own and be posed in all sorts of different ways whenever you like.
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You will need the following materials to knitting:
– cotton yarn 50 gr/240 m
– Alize forever 50 gr /300 m
– spokes 2
– needle, scissors, about 90 cm of wire, two buttons for eyes
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Abbreviations:
CO – cast on
K – knit
P – purl
inc – increase
dec – decrease
Arms (2 pieces)
Cast on 20 stitches onto one knitting needle.
1. 20 K
2. 20 P
3. 20 K
4. 20 P
5. 20 K
6. 20 P
7. 20 K
8. 20 P
8. 20 K
10. 20 P
11. 20 K
12. 20 P
13. 20 K
14. 20 P
15. 20 K
16. 20 P
17. 20 K
18. 20 P
19. 20 K
20. 20 P
21. 20 K
22. 20 P
23. 20 K
24. 20 P
25. 20 K
26. 20 P
27. 20 K
28. 20 P
29. 20 K
30. 20 P
31. 20 K
32. 20 P
33. 20 K
34. 20 P
35. 20 K
36. 20 P
37. (3 K, 1 dec) х 3, 3 K =15 K
38. 15 P
39. (3 K, 1 dec) х 3 = 12 K
40. 12 P
41. 12 K
42. 12 P
Binding off and sewing together: After binding off, fold the sides of the arms together and carefully sew them along the right and left sides to ensure a stable and even finish.
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Legs (2 parts)
Cast on 26 stitches onto one knitting needle.
1. 26 K
2. 26 P
3. 26 K
4. 26 P
5. 26 K
6. 26 P
7. 26 K
8. 26 P
8. 26 K
10. 26 P
11. 10 K, 3 dec, 10 K = 23 K
12. 23 P
13. 9 K, 3 dec, 8 K = 20 K
14. 20 P
15. 20 K
16. 20 P
17. 20 K
18. 20 P
19. 20 K
20. 20 P
21. 20 K
22. 20 P
23. 20 K
24. 20 P
25. 20 K
26. 20 P
27. 20 K
28. 20 P
29. 20 K
30. 20 P
31. 20 K
32. 20 P
33. 20 K
34. 20 P
35. 20 K
36. 20 P
37. 20 K
38. 20 P
39. 20 K
40. 20 P
41. 20 K
42. 20 P
Binding off and sewing together: After binding off, fold the sides of the legs together and carefully sew them along the right and left sides to ensure a stable and even finish.
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Head
Cast on 10 stitches onto one knitting needle.
1. 10 K
2. 10 P
3. 10 inc = 20 K
4. 20 P
5. (1 K, 1 inc) х 10 = 30 K
6. 30 P
7. (2 K, 1 inc) х 10 = 40 K
8. 40 P
9. 40 K
10. 40 P
11. (3 K, 1 inc) х 10 = 50 K
12. 50 P
13. 50 K
14. 50 P
15. (4 K, 1 inc) х 10 = 60 K
16. 60 P
17. 60 K
18. 60 P
19. (5 K, 1 inc) х 10 = 70 K
20. 70 P
21. 70 K
22. 70 P
23. (6 K, 1 inc) х 10 = 80 K
24. 70 P
25. 80 K
26. 80 P
27. 80 K
28. 80 P
29. 80 K
30. 80 P
31. 80 K
32. 80 P
33. 80 K
34. 80 P
35. 80 K
36. 80 P
37. 80 K
38. 80 P
39. 80 K
40. 80 P
41. 80 K
42. 80 P
43. 80 K
44. 80 P
45. 80 K
46. 80 P
Changing the yarn to black
45. 80 K
46. 80 P
47. 80 K
48. 80 P
49. 80 K
50. 80 P
51. 80 K
52. 80 P
53. 80 K
54. 80 P
55. (6 K, 1 dec) х 10 = 70 K
56. 70 P
57. (5 K, 1 dec) х 10 = 60 K
58. 60 P
59. (4 K, 1 dec) х 10 = 50 K
60. 50 P
61. (3 K, 1 dec) х 10 = 40 K
62. 40 P
63. (2 K, 1 dec) х 10 = 30 K
64. 30 P
65. (2 K, 1 dec) х 10 = 20 K
66. 20 P
67. (1 K, 1 dec) х 10 = 10 K
68. 10 P
Carefully fasten off the remaining stitches, fasten the thread securely and then cut. Sew the head together. But leave a small unfinished section to install the framework later.
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Body
Cast on 18 stitches onto one knitting needle.
1. 18 K
2. 18 P
3. 18 K
4. 18 P
5. 18 K
6. 18 P
7. 18 K
8. 18 P
8. 18 K
10. 18 P
11. 18 inc = 36 K
12. 36 P
13 (1 K, 1 inc) х 18 = 54 K
14. 54 P
14. 54 K
15. 54 K
16. 54 P
17. 54 K
18. 54 P
19. 54 K
20. 54 P
21. 54 K
22. 54 P
23. 54 K
24. 54 P
25. 54 K
26. 54 P
27. 54 K
28. 54 P
29. 54 K
30. 54 P
31. 54 K
32. 54 P
33. 54 K
34. 54 P
35. 54 K
36. 54 P
37. 54 K
38. 54 P
39. 54 K
40. 54 P
41. 54 K
42. 54 P
43. 54 K
44. 54 P
45. 54 K
46. 54 P
47. 54 K
48. 54 P
49. 54 K
50. 54 P
51. (7 K, 1 dec) х 6 = 48 K
52. 48 P
53. (6 K, 1 dec) х 6 = 42 K
54. 42 P
55. (5 K, 1 dec) х 6 = 36 K
56. 36 P
57. (4 K, 1 dec) х 6 = 30 K
58. 30 P
59. (3 K, 1 dec) х 6 = 24 K
60. 24 P
61. (2 K, 1 dec) х 6 = 18 K
62. 18 P
63. (1 K, 1 dec) х 6 = 12 K
64. 12 P
65. 6 dec = 6 K
66. 6 P
Binding off and sewing together: After binding off, fold the sides of the body together and carefully sew them along the right and left sides to ensure a stable and even finish.
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Now let’s assemble the doll around her wire frame. Prepare two pieces of wire, each about 34 cm long. Make a small loop at one end of each piece and secure it with a small piece of medical tape. Place these loops inside the feet. Next, carefully thread the wire through the loops in the body, positioning it at the points where the legs will be attached. Continue pulling the wire through the body until the other end emerges at the points where the arms will be placed, near the neck. Before making the loop at this end, first check the position and size of the arm pieces. Once everything fits, make a loop at the end of the wire, secure it with medical tape, and slide the arm pieces onto the wire. Add stuffing to the legs, arms, and body. Position the arms and legs and sew them securely in place.
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For now, let’s set aside the body assembly without the head and knit the clothes.
Sweatshirt
Front panel
Cast on 38 stitches onto one knitting needle.
1. 38 K
2. 38 P
3. 38 K
4. 38 P
5. 38 K
6. 38 P
7. 1 dec, 34 K, 1 dec = 36 K
8. 36 P
9. 1 dec, 32 K, 1 dec = 34 K
10. 34 P
11. 1 dec, 30 K, 1 dec = 32 K
12. 32 P
13. 1 dec, 28 K, 1 dec = 30 K
14. 30 P
15. 30 K
16. 30 P
17. 30 K
18. 30 P
19. 1 inc, 28 K, 1 inc = 32 K
20. 32 P
21. 1 inc, 30 K, 1 inc = 34 K
22. 34 P
23. 1 inc, 32 K, 1 inc = 36 K
24. 36 P
25. 1 inc, 34 K, 1 inc = 38 K
26. 38 P
27. 38 K
28. 38 P
29. 1 inc, 38 K, 1 inc = 40 K
30. 40 P
31. 40 K
32. 40 P
33. 40 K
34. 40 P
35. 40 K
36. 40 P
37. 40 K
38. 40 P
39. 40 K
40. 40 P
41. 40 K
42. 40 P
43. 40 K
44. 40 P
45. 40 K
46. 40 P
47. 40 K
48. 40 P
Now divide the stitches into three sections, placing each section on a separate needle. The number of stitches in each section can be chosen freely — this uneven division will create the ragged edge of the garment. I divided my stitches as follows: 14 + 12 + 14 stitches.
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49. 14 K
50. 14 P
51. 14 K
52. 14 P
53. 14 K
54. 14 P
55. 1 dec, 10 K,1 dec = 12 K
56. 12 P
57. 1 dec, 8 K,1 dec = 10 K
58. 10 P
59. 1 dec, 6 K,1 dec = 8 K
60. 8 P
61. 1 dec, 4 K,1 dec = 6 K
62. 6 P
Carefully fasten off the remaining stitches, fasten the thread securely and then cut.
Join the yarn to the next section. In my case, this is the middle section of 12 stitches.
1. 12 K
2. 12 P
3. 12 K
4. 12 P
5. 12 K
6. 12 P
7. 12 K
8. 12 P
9. 1 dec, 8 K,1 dec = 10 K
10. 10 P
11. 1 dec, 6 K,1 dec = 8 K
12. 8 P
13. 8 P
14. 8 P
15. 8 P
16. 8 P
Carefully fasten off the remaining stitches, fasten the thread securely and then cut.
Join the yarn to the third section. In my case, this section has 14 stitches.
1. 14 K
2. 14 P
3. 14 K
4. 14 P
5. 14 K
6. 14 P
7. 12 K, 1 dec = 13 K
8. 13 P
9. 11 K, 1 dec = 12 K
10. 12 P
11. 10 K, 1 dec = 12 K
12. 12 P
13. 1 dec, 7 K, 1 dec = 9 K
14. 9 P
15. 1 dec, 5 K, 1 dec = 7 K
16. 7 P
Carefully fasten off the remaining stitches, fasten the thread securely and then cut.
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Back panel
Cast on 42 stitches onto one knitting needle.
1. 42 K
2. 42 P
3. 42 K
4. 42 P
5. 42 K
6. 42 P
7. 1 dec, 38 K, 1 dec = 40 K
8. 40 P
9. 1 dec, 36 K, 1 dec = 38 K
10. 38 P
11. 1 dec, 34 K, 1 dec = 36 K
12. 36 P
13. 1 dec, 32 K, 1 dec = 34 K
14. 34 P
15. 34 K
16. 34 P
17. 34 K
18. 34 P
19. 1 inc, 32 K, 1 inc = 36 K
20. 36 P
21. 1 inc, 34 K, 1 inc = 38 K
22. 38 P
23. 1 inc, 36 K, 1 inc = 40 K
24. 40 P
25. 1 inc, 38 K, 1 inc = 42 K
26. 42 P
27. 42 K
28. 42 P
29. 1 inc, 40 K, 1 inc = 44 K
30. 44 P
31. 44 K
32. 44 P
33. 44 K
34. 44 P
35. 44 K
36. 44 P
37. 44 K
38. 44 P
39. 44 K
40. 44 P
41. 44 K
42. 44 P
43. 44 K
44. 44 P
45. 44 K
46. 44 P
47. 44 K
48. 44 P
Now divide the stitches into two sections, placing each section on a separate needle. The number of stitches in each section can be chosen freely — this uneven division will create the ragged edge of the garment. I divided my stitches as follows: 18 + 26 stitches.
49. 26 K
50. 26 P
51. 26 K
52. 26 P
53. 26 K
54. 26 P
55. 1 dec, 24 K = 25 K
56. 25 P
57. 1 dec, 23 K = 24 K
58. 24 P
59. 1 dec, 22 K = 23 K
60. 23 P
61. 1 dec, 21 K = 22 K
62. 22 P
Carefully fasten off the remaining stitches, fasten the thread securely and then cut.
Join the yarn to the next section. In my case, this is the middle section of 18 stitches.
1. 18 K
2. 18 P
3. 18 K
4. 18 P
5. 18 K
6. 18 P
7. 1 dec, 16 K = 17 K
8. 17 P
9. 1 dec, 15 K = 16 K
10. 16 P
11. 1 dec, 14 K = 15 K
12. 15 P
13. 1 dec, 13 K = 14 K
14. 14 P
15. 1 dec, 12 K = 13 K
16. 13 P
17. 13 K
18. 13 P
Carefully fasten off the remaining stitches, fasten the thread securely and then cut.
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Sleeves (2 pcs)
Cast on 40 stitches onto one knitting needle.
1. 40 K
2. 40 P
3. 40 K
4. 40 P
5. 40 K
6. 40 P
7. 40 K
8. 40 P
9. 2 dec, 32 K, 2 dec = 36 K
10. 36 P
11. 2 dec, 28 K, 2 dec = 32 K
12. 32 P
13. 2 dec, 24 K, 2 dec = 28 K
14. 28 P
15. 2 dec, 20 K, 2 dec = 24 K
16. 24 P
17. 2 dec, 16 K, 2 dec = 20 K
18. 20 P
Carefully fasten off the remaining stitches, fasten the thread securely and then cut. Sew the short side section of the piece.
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Sew the side seams of the front and back pieces together, as well as the shoulder seams. I attached the sleeves with rough, uneven stitches to give them a deliberately messy, worn-out look. After all, this is not an ordinary doll.
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Footwear (2 items)
Cast on 32 stitches onto one knitting needle.
1. 32 K
2. 32 P
3. 32 K
4. 32 P
5. 32 K
6. 32 P
7. 32 K
8. 32 P
9. 32 K
10. 32 P
11. 32 K
12. 32 P
13. 32 K
14. 32 P
15. 12 K, 4 dec, 12 K = 28 K
16. 28 P
17. 10 K, 4 dec, 10 K = 24 K
18. 24 P
19. 24 K
20. 24 P
Carefully fasten off the remaining stitches, fasten the thread securely and then cut. Sew the sole line; do not touch the side section of the piece for now.
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For better stability, I added a piece of plastic to the sole of each shoe. I traced the shape of the sole onto the plastic and cut it out. Before putting the shoe onto the doll’s foot, I inserted the plastic piece underneath the foot. I then stitched the side seam of the shoe directly on the doll. The photos show this process in detail.
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Now let’s assemble the doll completely and attach the head. First, we will add a neck support frame. Take a new piece of wire, approximately 16 cm long, and twist it into a spiral, as shown in the photo. Insert the wire into the head piece and sew the remaining opening closed completely. All that remains is to sew the head onto the neck.
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Ears (2 pieces)
Cast on 6 stitches onto one knitting needle.
1. 6 inc = 12 K
2. 12 P
3. (1 K, 1 inc) х 6 = 18 K
4. 18 P
5. 18 K
6. 18 P
7. (1 K, 1 dec) х 6 = 12 K
8. 12 P
9. 6 dec = 6 K
10 6 P
Transfer the stitches onto a needle and pull them tight. Cut the yarn, leaving a small tail for further work. Sew the piece together.
Form a small curl and sew it to the sides of the head.
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And finally, my favorite part of creating characters: choosing the eyes, deciding where to place them, creating the smile, and bringing the whole face and personality of the character to life.
Choose the right size of buttons for the eyes and decide on their placement. Then create the smile — or, in this case, an unusual mouth. We remember, after all, that this is no ordinary doll. He is a monster, but a cute one!
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Add just a few strands of black thread to the black part of the head to imitate the sparse remains of hair. The eyebrows are also made with black thread, using rough, uneven stitches — just as messy as the mouth. Finally, define the nose with a few simple stitches.
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I created this doll as an interior decoration piece, so I decided to add some shading and distressing as well. Notice how much the character changes with just a few strokes of pastel crayons. I added a few rough stitches with black thread to the clothes to imitate patches, and also rubbed some pastel onto the fabric to make the clothes look worn and dirty. We remember, after all, that with this character, the scarier he looks, the better!
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And now I’m finally happy with the transformation — from an ordinary doll into a cute little monster.
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