Phone stand «Octopus pirate»

Some projects begin with a practical idea, while others begin with a smile. This little octopus started with both. At first glance, a phone stand may seem like a very simple project, yet I find myself returning to it again and again for inspiration. This time, the sea and the spirit of summer led me to create an octopus—a character full of playful possibilities and surprising functionality.

It can serve as a fun and unusual stand for your phone or tablet, or simply become a lively companion for pirate adventures and imaginative seaside stories. With its flexible tentacles, you can pose it in countless amusing ways and invent all sorts of entertaining adventures.

Perhaps your octopus will bring you little treasures from the bottom of the sea… or maybe something a little more practical that its tentacles have managed to catch—perhaps even a snack from the refrigerator!

You will need the following materials to crochet:

– Alize aura 100 gr /340 m

– white cotton yarn 50 gr /300 m

– Crochet hook 1,5 mm (important, the size should match the yarn so that the stitches are even).

– a needle, scissors, wire about 180 cm long with a diameter of 1 mm, filler, half beads or buttons for eyes, suction cups.

Abbreviations:

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

inc – increase

dec – decrease, two single crochets together

puff stitch – 3 double crochets in a single loop

As we know, octopuses have the remarkable ability to change their color, and that inspired my choice of yarn for this project. I chose purple as the main color, with touches of blue woven throughout, which I felt perfectly captured the spirit of this little sea creature. I would also like to share a few thoughts about the yarn itself. Sometimes it is worth taking a closer look at the way a yarn is constructed, as this can give you valuable clues about how it will behave in the finished piece. For this project, I used Alize Aura yarn. It features a cotton core wrapped in a fine, silky thread in a spiral. This construction not only creates a beautiful visual effect but also helps the knitted fabric hold its shape more effectively. For a project like this, where the tentacles need to remain flexible while still keeping their form, I found it to be an excellent choice. Unfortunately, this yarn has since been discontinued. However, I encourage you to explore the yarns available in your own local shops. Discovering new materials is always part of the creative journey, and you may find a yarn that suits this project just as beautifully—or perhaps even better.

Tentacles (6 pcs)

1. Crochet 6 sc in a Magic Ring

2. 6 sc

3. (1 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 9 sc

4, 5. 9 sc

6. (2 sc, 1 inc) х 2 = 12 sc

7,8. 12 sc

9. (3 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 15 sc

10, 11. 15 sc

12. 5 sc, 1 puff stitch, 9 sc = 15 sc

13. 8 sc, 1 puff stitch, 6 sc = 15 sc

14, 15. 15 sc

Please note that when crocheting the puff stitches, their raised texture naturally appears on the wrong side of the fabric. As you continue working the following rounds, use the handle of your crochet hook to gently ease each puff stitch through to the right side. This simple step will make the texture stand out beautifully and give the tentacles an appearance that closely resembles the octopus’s suction cups.

16. 5 sc, 1 puff stitch, 9 sc = 15 sc

17. 8 sc, 1 puff stitch, 6 sc = 15 sc

18, 19. 15 sc

20. 5 sc, 1 puff stitch, 9 sc = 15 sc

21. 8 sc, 1 puff stitch, 6 sc = 15 sc

22, 23. 15 sc

24. 5 sc, 1 puff stitch, 9 sc = 15 sc

25. 8 sc, 1 puff stitch, 6 sc = 15 sc

26, 27. 15 sc

28. 5 sc, 1 puff stitch, 9 sc = 15 sc

29. 8 sc, 1 puff stitch, 6 sc = 15 sc

30. (4 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 18 sc

31. 18 sc

32. 7 sc, 1 puff stitch, 10 sc = 18 sc

33. 11 sc, 1 puff stitch, 6 sc = 18 sc

34, 35. 18 sc

36. 7 sc, 1 puff stitch, 10 sc = 18 sc

37. 11 sc, 1 puff stitch, 6 sc = 18 sc

38, 39. 18 sc

40. 7 sc, 1 puff stitch, 10 sc = 18 sc

41. 11 sc, 1 puff stitch, 6 sc = 18 sc

42. (5 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 21 sc

43. 21 sc

44. 9 sc, 1 puff stitch, 11 sc = 21 sc

45. 13 sc, 1 puff stitch, 7 sc = 21 sc

46, 47. 21 sc

48. 9 sc, 1 puff stitch, 11 sc = 21 sc

49. 13 sc, 1 puff stitch, 7 sc = 21 sc

50, 51. 21 sc

52. 9 sc, 1 puff stitch, 11 sc = 21 sc

53. 13 sc, 1 puff stitch, 7 sc = 21 sc

54, 55. 21 sc

56. 9 sc, 1 puff stitch, 11 sc = 21 sc

57. 13 sc, 1 puff stitch, 7 sc = 21 sc

58. (6 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 24 sc

59. 24 sc

From this point onward, work every stitch through the back loop only.

60. 11 sc, 1 puff stitch, 12 sc = 24 sc

61. 16 sc, 1 puff stitch, 7 sc = 24 sc

62, 63. 24 sc

64. 11 sc, 1 puff stitch, 12 sc = 24 sc

65. 16 sc, 1 puff stitch, 7 sc = 24 sc

66, 67. 24 sc

Close, trim the thread. Leave this piece unstuffed.

In the photo, I have marked the final rounds with a needle to highlight the remaining front loops. We will use these loops later when adding the finishing details, so be careful not to work into them.

Now we will begin forming the main body of the octopus by joining the tentacles together through the remaining front loops. As you work, remember that an octopus’s suction cups are found on the inner side of its tentacles. When joining the tentacles and continuing to crochet the body, make sure that the puff stitches are facing inward, toward the center of the circle. This will ensure that the suction cups are positioned naturally and give your octopus an authentic appearance.

Head

1. (10 sc along one tentacle, 16 ch) х 6 = 156 sc

Join the yarn to the outside of one tentacle (the side without the puff stitches). Work 10 sc into Round 60—the first round with the remaining front loops.

Then work a chain of 16 ch and attach it to the next tentacle.

Repeat this sequence around all six tentacles, joining each one with a chain of 16 stitches. When the last chain has been joined to the first tentacle, you will have formed a complete ring. This becomes the foundation round of your octopus’s body.

Before continuing, take a moment to check that all of the tentacles are facing in the same direction and that the puff stitches (the suction cups) are positioned on the inside of the ring. A quick check now will help ensure that the finished octopus looks just as intended.

2. (10 sc along one tentacle, 16 ch) х 6 = 156 sc

From this point onward, each round is worked by crocheting into the single crochet stitches of the previous round while also picking up the remaining front loops of the next round. This creates a double layer of fabric where the tentacles join the body, making the connection both neat and sturdy.

The blue tentacle in the photo shows this technique more clearly, where you can see the hook passing through both loops. After joining each tentacle in this way, work 16 sc across the chain space before continuing to the next tentacle.

At this stage, I found myself quite grateful that I had chosen to give my octopus only six tentacles instead of eight!

3. (10 sc along one tentacle, 1 dec, 12 sc, 1 dec) х 6 = 144 sc

The pins in the photo indicate where the decreases are worked—along the chain sections, close to the base of each tentacle. Continue placing the decreases in these same positions in the following rounds.

4. (10 sc along one tentacle, 1 dec, 10 sc, 1 dec) х 6 = 132 sc

5. (10 sc along one tentacle, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec) х 6 = 120 sc

6. (10 sc along one tentacle, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec) х 6 = 108 sc

7. (10 sc along one tentacle, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec) х 6 = 96 sc

8. (10 sc along one tentacle, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec) х 6 = 84 sc

9. (10 sc along one tentacle, 2 dec) х 6 = 72 sc

10. (10 sc along one tentacle, 1 dec) х 6 = 66 sc

Working the decreases in this way creates gentle curves between the tentacles, giving the underside of the octopus a more natural, sculpted shape.

Next, divide the circle into two unequal sections.

Ch 18, then, working counterclockwise, skip the next 20 stitches and join the chain with 1 sc.

1. 38 sc

2. 1 dec, 19 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc = 36 sc

The decrease points are marked with pins in the photo.

3. (1 dec, 4 sc) х 6 = 30 sc

4. (1 dec, 3 sc) х 6 = 24 sc

5. (1 dec, 2 sc) х 6 = 18 sc

6 (1 dec, 1 sc) х 6 = 12 sc

7. 6 dec = 6 sc

Close, trim the thread.

We will now continue working over the larger section of the piece. The first rows are worked back and forth along the edge of the smaller section.

1. Join the yarn in the corner just before the chain of stitches. In the photo, I have marked the exact joining point with the crochet hook.

18 sc stitches along the chain,

Work 1 sc into the stitch that joins the larger section, then turn your work.

2. Work 18 sc across the chain, then make 1 sc in the corner stitch. Turn your work.

3 - 5. Work 18 sc, then 1 sc in the corner stitch. Turn your work.

After completing these rows, you will have formed a neat straight section, as shown in the photo.

We will now continue working over the larger section, which will gradually form the main body (or head) of the octopus.

1. 36 sc, then join the two edges together with 1 sc2tog (decrease), 17 sc = 54 sc

2 – 4. 54 sc

5. (8 sc, 1 inc) х6 = 60 sc

6. 60 sc

7. (9 sc, 1 inc) х6 = 66 sc

8. 66 sc

9. (10 sc, 1 inc) х6 = 72 sc

10. 72 sc

11. (11 sc, 1 inc) х6 = 78 sc

12. 78 sc

13. (12 sc, 1 inc) х6 = 84 sc

14. 84 sc

15. (13 sc, 1 inc) х6 = 90 sc

16. 90 sc

17. (14 sc, 1 inc) х6 = 96 sc

18. 96 sc

19. (15 sc, 1 inc) х6 = 102 sc

20. 102 sc

21 – 30. 102 sc

31. (15 sc, 1 dec) х6 = 96 sc

32. 96 sc

33. (14 sc, 1 dec) х6 = 90 sc

34. 90 sc

35. (13 sc, 1 dec) х6 = 84 sc

36. 84 sc

37. (12 sc, 1 dec) х6 = 78 sc

38. 78 sc

39. (11 sc, 1 dec) х6 = 72 sc

40. 72 sc

41. (10 sc, 1 dec) х6 = 66 sc

42. 66 sc

43. (9 sc, 1 dec) х6 = 60 sc

44. 60 sc

45. (8 sc, 1 dec) х6 = 54 sc

46. (7 sc, 1 dec) х6 = 48 sc

47. (6 sc, 1 dec) х6 = 42 sc

48. (5 sc, 1 dec) х6 = 36 sc

49. (4 sc, 1 dec) х6 = 30 sc

50. (3 sc, 1 dec) х6 = 24sc

51. (2 sc, 1 dec) х6 = 18 sc

52. (1 sc, 1 dec) х6 = 12 sc

53. 6 dec = 6 sc

Close, trim the thread.

I decided to add one round of single crochet along the edge in blue to echo the color of the two blue tentacles. It is only a small detail, but I felt it brought the whole design together beautifully.

Now it is time to add the internal wire frame, which will give each tentacle both strength and flexibility. I recommend using wire that is at least 1 mm in diameter so that your octopus can stand securely on its tentacles while still allowing you to bend and pose them as you wish.

The first piece of wire, approximately 40 cm (15¾ in) long in my project, is used for the two front tentacles and the small protruding section that can be thought of as the octopus’s “mouth” or the support that helps hold your phone in place.

The other two pieces are the same length—approximately 70 cm (27½ in) each. These form the framework for the remaining tentacles and extend into the head to provide stability throughout the body. The photo shows how the wire is positioned inside the octopus.

For added safety, I recommend wrapping the ends of the wire with a small piece of adhesive tape before inserting them into the knitted piece. This helps protect both the yarn and your hands from the sharp ends.

Now that the wire frame is in place, it is time to add the stuffing to the octopus’s head. If you plan to use your octopus as a phone stand, I recommend stuffing the head only lightly. Keeping it soft and gently flexible will allow it to adapt to the shape of your phone and provide better support without pushing it away. If, on the other hand, your octopus is intended mainly as a toy, you can add more stuffing to create a firmer, more rounded shape. Leave the small protruding section unstuffed, with only the wire inside, as shown in the photo.

To complete and neatly enclose the entire construction, we will now crochet the bottom piece.

1. Crochet 8 sc in a Magic Ring

2. 8 inc = 16 sc

3. (1 sc, 1 inc) х 8 = 24 sc

4. (2 sc, 1 inc) х 8 = 32 sc

5. (3 sc, 1 inc) х 8 = 40 sc

6. (4 sc, 1 inc) х 8 = 48 sc

7. (5 sc, 1 inc) х 8 = 56 sc

8. (6 sc, 1 inc) х 8 = 64 sc

9. (7 sc, 1 inc) х 8 = 72 sc

10. (8 sc, 1 inc) х 8 = 80 sc

11. (9 sc, 1 inc) х 8 = 88 sc

12. (10 sc, 1 inc) х 8 = 96 sc

Close, trim the thread. Leave a long end of the thread for further work.

Use a few pins to secure the crocheted circle evenly to the underside of the octopus. This will help keep everything in place while you work and make it easier to join the pieces neatly.

Now, using the remaining front loops on the tentacles, work single crochet stitches all the way around the circle. Between the tentacles, simply continue working sc around the edge, moving smoothly from one tentacle to the next until the entire bottom is joined. Take your time with this step, checking occasionally that the bottom lies flat and the tentacles remain evenly positioned. A little care here will give your octopus a neat and well-balanced finish.

Eyes (white, 2 pcs)

1. Crochet 6 sc in a Magic Ring

2. 6 inc = 12 sc

3. (1 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 18 sc

4. (2 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 24 sc

5 – 13. 24 sc

14. (2 sc, 1 dec) х6 = 18 sc

15, 16. 18 sc

17. (1 sc, 1 dec) х6 = 12 sc

18. 6 dec = 6 sc

Leave this piece unstuffed. Close, trim the thread. Leave a long end of the thread for further work.

Eyebrows (base color, 2 pcs)

1. 6 sc in a ring

2. (1 inc, 1 sc) х 3 = 9 sc, 1 ch , turn

3. (1 inc, 2 sc) х 3 = 12 sc, 1 ch , turn

4 1 inc, 10 sc, 1 inc = 14 sc, 1 ch , turn

5. 14 sc

Close, trim the thread. Leave a long end of the thread for further work.

Now comes one of my favorite parts—bringing your octopus to life by giving it its own unique expression.

Try different positions for the eyelids, or even place the white parts of the eyes at slightly different heights. Small changes like these can completely transform your octopus’s personality.

Using buttons of different sizes can make the expression even more lively and distinctive. I also enjoy combining half beads of different diameters for the eyes, as they often create an especially charming look. Take your time to experiment and discover the face that feels just right for your octopus. Every little character has a personality of its own, and this is your chance to let it shine.

For even more playful possibilities, you can attach small suction cups to the ends of the tentacles. This will allow your octopus to cling to a refrigerator, a mirror, or any other smooth surface where it might like to settle for a while.

And who knows where your new little friend will choose to travel next? Perhaps one day you will find it guarding the refrigerator, watching over your desk, or quietly waiting to make you smile from an unexpected corner of your home.

To give your octopus the look of a sailor or a pirate, let's add a few fun accessories.

You will need the following materials to crochet:

– Alize forever 50 gr /300 m or any cotton yarn

– Crochet hook 1,5 mm (important, the size should match the yarn so that the stitches are even).

Headscarf / Bandana

Start crocheting with blue yarn.

1. Crochet 6 sc in a Magic Ring

2. 6 inc = 12 sc

3. (1 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 18 sc

4. (2 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 24 sc

Change to white yarn.

5. (3 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 30 sc

In blue

6. (4 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 36 sc

7. (5 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 42 sc

8. (6 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 48 sc

Change to white yarn.

9. (7 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 54 sc

In blue

10. (8 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 60 sc

11. (9 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 66 sc

12. (10 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 72 sc

Change to white yarn.

13. (11 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 78 sc

In blue

14. (12 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 84 sc

15. (13 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 90 sc

16. (14 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 96 sc

Change to white yarn.

17. (15 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 102 sc

In blue

18 – 20. 102 sc

Change to white yarn.

21. 102 sc

In blue

22 – 24. 102 sc

Change to white yarn.

25. 102 sc

In blue

26 – 29. 102 sc

30. 100 sc, 30 ch

Close, trim the thread.

Join the yarn 2 stitches from the edge and crochet a chain of 30 ch.

Change to the white yarn and work 1 sc into each chain stitch across.

Close, trim the thread.

To give your octopus a true pirate's look, let's make a black eye patch.

Pirate Eye Patch

1. Crochet 6 sc in a Magic Ring

2. 6 inc = 12 sc

3. (1 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 18 sc

4. (2 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 24 sc

5. (3 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 30 sc

6. (4 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 36 sc

7. (5 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 42 sc

8. (6 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 48 sc

Crochet a chain long enough to fit comfortably around the octopus's head. For my octopus, a chain of 100 ch was the right length, but I recommend trying it on your own project and adjusting the number of chains if needed.

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 99 sc. Then join the two ends to form the eye patch, making sure it fits comfortably around your octopus's head.

I have truly fallen in love with my new little friend and helper. It has been great fun discovering all the different poses it can strike, and thanks to the wire frame hidden inside its many tentacles, it can hold my phone securely—even on a mirror!  I hope you will enjoy creating your own playful octopus and have fun discovering all of its little talents. Perhaps it will become not only a practical phone stand, but also a cheerful companion that adds a touch of fun to your everyday life.