When the air is crisp and fresh, you want the neck to stay comfortably warm—without itching and without knots. That’s exactly what a loop scarf is for: it’s quick to sew, easy to slip on, and happily worn by children. In this tutorial, I’ll guide you through the project quickly and with confidence. In my sample, I use a breathable, stretchy jersey on the outside and a cotton fleece lining on the inside. This combination delivers a pleasant microclimate with gentle warmth and is sturdy enough for daycare, the playground, and everyday walks.
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Materials
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Outer fabric: Jersey (ideally 95% cotton, 5% elastane)
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Lining: Cotton fleece
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Sewing thread; clips/pins; fabric scissors or rotary cutter
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Jersey/ballpoint needle, size 70/10 or 80/12 (or a serger/overlock)
Machine & Stitch Settings
On a home sewing machine, a zigzag stitch with about 2.5–3 mm stitch length and ~3 mm width, or a stretch/lightning stitch, works reliably. On a serger/overlock, a 4-thread seam is ideal. If the jersey starts to ripple, slightly increase the differential feed. If needed, reduce presser foot pressure or use a walking foot to keep the jersey from shifting.
Fabric Choice – stretchy, warm, breathable
For the outer layer, single jersey is a proven choice: soft, breathable, and pleasantly stretchy. Interlock is a bit more stable and doesn’t curl as much, which makes sewing easier. French terry or lightweight sweat will make the loop warmer; because these fabrics have less give, cut the circumference 1–2 cm wider. For the lining, cotton fleece is very skin-friendly and noticeably more breathable than many synthetic fleeces. A slim, premium alternative is merino jersey, which feels warm while regulating temperature.
How stretchy should the fabric be? For a loop of this size, about 20–30% crosswise stretch is sufficient. In a quick test, a 10 cm swatch should stretch to 12–13 cm with moderate pull. More stretch isn’t necessary and can make the fit too loose. In general, the most comfortable combo is a light to midweight outer paired with a medium, warm lining; two very bulky layers can feel stiff on a child’s neck. Where possible, look for certifications like OEKO-TEX or GOTS.
Sizing & Adjustments
The measurements above generally fit children aged 1–6 years. For a more precise fit, go by head circumference (HC). With well-stretchy fabrics, cut the width (final loop circumference) as HC minus 2–3 cm. With less stretchy fabrics, HC minus 0–2 cm is sufficient. For height, 20–22 cm works well for smaller children, 22–24 cm for extra coziness. 24 cm is a tried-and-tested standard.
Average Head Circumference (reference values)
| Age | Avg. HC |
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| Newborn | 34–35 cm |
| 6 months | ~43 cm |
| 12 months | 46–47 cm |
| 2 years | 48–49 cm |
| 3 years | 49–50 cm |
| 4–5 years | 50–51 cm |
| 6–8 years | 51–52 cm |
| 9–12 years | 52–54 cm |
| 13–16 years | 54–56 cm |
These figures are guidelines; individual variation is normal. If you’re between sizes, let the fabric’s stretch decide—the more elastic the outer fabric, the safer it is to choose the smaller width.
Safety & Care
The loop should slip over the head easily and never feel tight. If it seems snug, increase the circumference on your next version or choose a more elastic outer fabric. For safety, avoid cords or stoppers, and don’t let children wear the loop while sleeping. Wash according to the fabric’s care instructions, usually 30–40 °C. Fleece prefers low heat—dry flat rather than tumble-drying.
Cutting & Preparation
Cut two rectangles, each 48 × 24 cm (head circumference × height). Alternatively, cut 24 × 24 cm on the fold. These measurements are what I use for my 1-year-old daughter and they work well for toddlers. For larger children, see the “Sizing & Adjustments” section for recommended dimensions.
Make sure the greatest stretch runs across the 48 cm width—this becomes the circumference and helps the loop slide over the head comfortably. Add 0.7–1.0 cm seam allowance. Prewash both fabrics. For fleece, align the nap in one direction so the loop feels uniformly soft.
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If you’d like to add a label to the outer fabric, do it now. Leave about 4 cm of clearance from the lower fabric edge.
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Sewing
Place the outer and lining fabrics right sides together, edges aligned, and sew the two long edges with a stretch (lightning) stitch on your sewing machine or with a 4-thread overlock. This creates a double-layer tube.
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Turn the tube right side out so the right sides face outward and the layers sit wrong sides together.
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Shape one of the short openings so jersey meets jersey (right sides together) and fleece meets fleece, then clip the short edges. I find it easiest not to pin all the way around—just clip at the top and bottom. Start stitching on the fleece side and feed the fabric gradually as you sew. Leave a 5–6 cm turning opening in the fleece.
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Turn the loop through the opening, smooth the edges, and close the gap invisibly by hand with a ladder (mattress) stitch, or edge-stitch it with a narrow zigzag.
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If you like, topstitch the long edges close to the edge with a stretch stitch. This adds a bit of structure and helps the seams lie flat, but it isn’t essential.
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Your new loop is ready!
Here’s my pro tip: gift them in pairs. Parents will thank you—there’s always one missing or in the wash. 😉
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I hope you enjoyed this tutorial! If you have any questions or run into any issues, please leave me a comment. I’m also always happy about positive feedback. :)
Happy sewing—and feel free to browse my other free blog posts or take a look around my shop. You’ll find many more sewing and crochet patterns there, from practical everyday makes to cute cuddly toys and amigurumi.
