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Crochet this adorable football player amigurumi toy which is perfect for football fans with this free crochet pattern. It can be used as decoration or as a nice gift for someone special. This amigurumi design makes it a truly unique and special toy that your child or friend will cherish for years to come.
SUPPLIES
cotton yarn (e.g. Schachenmayr Catania 125m/50g) in four colors: skin color or beige, red, black and white, crochet hook 3 mm, Polyester fiberfill stuffing, scissors, 2 black beads or safety eyes, yarn needle, 2 buttons or velcro fastener.
SKILL LEVEL
Intermediate
SIZE
The ready amigurumi is approx. 25 cm, can be made bigger or smaller depending on the yarn and hook you use.
SKILLS YOU NEED
chain, single crochet, double crochet, half double crochet, slip stitch, increase, decrease
ABBREVIATIONS
Ch =chain
St = stitch
Sc =single crochet
Sl st = slip stitch
dec = decrease stitch (two single crochets together)
inc = increase stitch (two single crochets into one stitch)
Dc = double crochet
Rnd = Round
TIPPS
- Do not join rounds, work in a continuous spiral.
- Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round
- All stitches are worked into both loops, unless stated otherwise in the pattern.
- Amigurumi can be made in any desired colours.
Seamsless way of changing color when working in the round
Pick up the new color at the end of the round: inset your hook into the stitch, yarn over the new color and pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook to complete the stitch.
SHIFT STITCH
Sometimes during a work of the spiral amigurumi, you need to keep the work symmetrically. As work tends to twist to the right you need to adjust position of the marker periodically (beginning of the round).
Shift stitch is an extra stitch you work at the end of a round to make your work look symmetrical. If you notice that marker moves right, you need to work one extra stitch in the end of the round and move marker for one stitch (now 2nd st of the round becomes 1st). this is shift stitch.
The shift stitch is not included in the round description. To check if it’s time to work shift stitch fold your work in half and check if marker still goes straight or use a yarn that marks a straight line.
You may think this is a increase, but it isn’t. This way you don’t increase or decrease the amount of stitches. The stitches count remains the same.
INSTRUCTIONS
ARM (2x)
Start with white color yarn.
Round 1: 6 sc into Magic Ring
Round 2: inc 6 times (12 stitches)
Round 3: *sc in each of next 3 stitches, inc* (15 stitches)
Rounds 4-23: sc in each of next 15 stitches
Round 24: *dec, sc in each of next 3 stitches* (12 stitches)
Stuff the arm slightly.
Round 25-26: sc in each of next 12 stitches
Bind off leaving a long tail for sewing. Work the second arm the same way.
BOOTS
Start with black color yarn.
Round 1: chain 10 stitches, sc into the 2nd stitch from hook and each of next 7 stitches, 3 sc in next stitch, working in other side of foundation chain: sc in each of next 7 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch (=20 stitches)
Round 2: 2 sc in each of next 2 stitches, sc in each of next 6 stitches, 2 sc in each of next 3 stitches, sc in each of next 8 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch (=26 stitches)
Round 3: sc in each of next 2 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch, sc in each of next 8 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch, sc in each of next 3 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch, sc in each of next 8 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch, sc in next stitch (=30 stitches)
Round 4: sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch, sc in each of next 10 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch, sc in each of next 3 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch, sc in each of next 10 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch, sc in each of next 2 stitches, sl st (=34 stitches)
Change to white color yarn
Round 5: scbp into each of the next stitch around.
Change to black color yarn
Round 6 (working into the back loop): sc in each of next stitch around
Round 7-8: sc in each of next stitch around
Change to white color yarn
Round 9 (working into the back loop): sc in each of next stitch around
Round 10 (working into the back loop): chain 1, sc in each of next 8 stitches, *dec, sc in next stitch* 3 times, sc in each of next 2 stitches, *sc in next stitch, dec* 3 times, sc in each of next 6 stitches (=28 stitches)
Round 11: sc in each of next 5 stitches, *dec, sc in next stitch* 6 times, sc in each of next 7 stitches (22 stitches)
Round 12: sc in each of next stitch around
Do not bind off.
All around the sole work one round in sc´s. Bind off.
SOCKS (2x)
Change to red color yarn
Continue crocheting in rounds.
Round 1 (working into the back loop): *dec, sc in each of next 3 stitches* repeat 4 times, sc in each of next 2 stitches (18 stitches)
Round 2: sc in each of next 18 stitches
Change to white color yarn
Round 3-6: sc in each of next stitch around
Change to red color yarn
Round 7: sc in each of next 18 stitches
Change to white color yarn
Round 8: sc in each of next stitch around
Change to red color yarn
Round 9: sc in each of next 18 stitches
LEG (2x)
Change to skin or beige color yarn
Round 10 (working into the back loop): sc in each of next 18 stitches
Round 11: *sc in each of next 5 stitches, inc* (21 stitches)
Round 12-15: sc in each of next 21 stitches
Working into the front loop with black color yarn: sc in each of next 18 stitches
Change to white color yarn
Round 16-17: sc in each of next 21 stitches
Stuff firmly. Cast off the first leg. Work the second leg the same way but don´t cast off!
BODY and HEAD
Work shift stitch every 2-3 round. Continue crocheting in rounds using white color yarn.
Round 1: chain 3 stitches, work one round over both legs (21 stitches of the first leg, sc in each of next 3 stitches, 21 stitches of the second leg)
Round 2: sc in each of next 11 stitches, inc, sc in the next stitch, inc, sc in each of next 21 sts, inc, sc in the next stitch, inc, sc in each of next 9 stitches (52 stitches)
Round 3-13: sc in each of next 52 stitches
Change to beige or skin color yarn
Rnd 14: sc in each of next 52 stitches
Round 15: sc in each of next 12 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of next 21 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of next 9 stitches (48 stitches)
Round 16-18: sc in each of next 48 stitches
Round 19: sc in each of next 11 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of next 19 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of next 8 stitches (44 stitches)
Round 20: sc in each of next 44 stitches
Round 21: sc in each of next 10 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of next 17 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of next 7 stitches (40 stitches)
Round 22: sc in each of next 40 stitches
Round 23: sc in each of next 9 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of next 15 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of next 6 stitches (36 stitches)
Round 24-26: sc in each of next 36 stitches
Stuff the body firmly.
Round 27: sc in each of next 8 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of next 13 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of next 5 stitches (32 stitches)
In the next round attach the hands (ensure that the hands are located in the middle and make several shift stitches if needed):
Round 28: sc in each of next 7 stitches, 6 sc both through hand and body, sc in each of next 10 stitches, 6 sc both through hand and body, sc in each of next 3 stitches.
Round 29: sc in each of next 32 stitches
Round 30: sc in each of next 7 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of next 11 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of next 4 stitches (28 stitches)
Round 31: sc in each of next 28 stitches
Round 32: sc in each of next 6 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of next 9 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of next 3 stitches (24 stitches)
Round 33-34: sc in each of next 24 stitches
Do not bind off! You can add couple more rounds if you wish the longer neck for your amigurumi.
HEAD
Continue crocheting in rounds using beige or skin color yarn.
Round 1: *sc in the next stitch, inc* (36 stitches)
Round 2: *sc in each of next 2 stitches, inc* (48 stitches)
Round 3: *sc in each of next 7 stitches, inc* (54 stiitches)
Round 4: *sc in each of next 8 stitches, inc* (60 stitches)
Round 5-16: sc in each of next 60 stitches
Round 17: *dec, sc in each of next 8 stitches* (54 stitches)
Round 18: sc in each of next 54 stitches
Round 19: *dec, sc in each of next 7 stitches* (48 stitches)
Round 20: *dec, sc in each of next 6 stitches* (42 stitches)
Round 21: *dec, sc in each of next 5 stitches* (36 stitches)
Round 22: *dec, sc in each of next 4 stitches* (30 stitches)
Round 23:*dec, sc in each of next 3 stitches* (24 stitches)
Stuff the head firmly.
Round 24: *dec, sc in each of next 2 stitches* (18 stitches)
Round 25: *dec, sc in the next stitch* (12 stitches)
Round 26: *dec*, repeat 6 times.
Bind off.
ASSEMBLY
Using the black yarn cut the yarn twice as long as the length you want (mine is approx 12 cm), fold in half, loop through the stitches.
Put the hook through the loop where you want the hair, grab a strand of your yarn and pull it through. Grab the end of the yarn and pull that through the loop. Using tapestry needle you can split the yarn so it looks more like hair.
Mark where you want the eyes to be placed with pins and sew them with the distance of 6-8 stitches to the head of your amigurumi.
Embroider nose with beige color yarn. At the end pull the needle out the same hole it originally went into, so that both yarn tails are coming out of the same hole. Tie a knot with both yarn tails, as close to the surface of the head as possible. Hide the yarn tails inside the head.
Embroider eyebrows with brown color yarn. Proceed to the smile if desired. You can also add eyelashes. Weave in all ends.
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Add shoelaces. Ready!
The pattern for the clothes you can find here
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In my blog you can find many free crochet and knitting pattern. Happy crocheting! Feel free to contact me with any questions. Thank you for stopping by and have a lovely day!
