An adorable set for your amigurumi rabbit. The shirt is worked in a single piece from the top-down. The work begins at bodice and continues down to legs.
SUPPLIES
cotton yarn (e.g. Schachenmayr Catania 125m/50g) in four colors: beige, brown, green and purple, crochet hook 3 mm and 2,5 mm, Polyester fiberfill stuffing, 2 black beads, 2 buttons, scissors, yarn needle.
SKILL LEVEL
Intermediate
SIZE
The ready amigurumi is approx. 30 cm. You can make the pattern larger (or smaller) by changing the yarn weight and/or hook size or by adding rounds
SKILLS YOU NEED
chain, single crochet, double crochet, half double crochet, slip stitch, increase, decrease
ABBREVIATIONS
Ch =chain
St = stitch
Sc =single crochet
Sl st = slip stitch
dec = decrease stitch (two single crochets together)
inc = increase stitch (two single crochets into one stitch)
Dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
Rnd = Round
TIPPS
- Do not join rounds, work in a continuous spiral.
- Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round
- All stitches are worked into both loops, unless stated otherwise in the pattern.
- You can use any type of yarn as long as you have a corresponding crochet hook size (check yarn label for recommendations)
- Numbers at the end of each round in parentheses ( ) = total number of stitches for that round or row.
- Please note that I use US crochet terms.
- Amigurumi can be made in any desired colours.
SHIFT STITCH
Sometimes during a work of the spiral amigurumi, you need to keep the work symmetrically. As work tends to twist to the right you need to adjust position of the marker periodically (beginning of the round).
Shift stitch is an extra stitch you work at the end of a round to make your work look symmetrical. If you notice that marker moves right, you need to work one extra stitch in the end of the round and move marker for one stitch (now 2nd st of the round becomes 1st). this is shift stitch.
The shift stitch is not included in the round description. To check if it’s time to work shift stitch fold your work in half and check if marker still goes straight or use a yarn that marks a straight line.
You may think this is a increase, but it isn’t. This way you don’t increase or decrease the amount of stitches. The stitches count remains the same.
Front Post Double Crochet:
Yarn over, insert your hook between the posts of the first and second stitch of the row below, and then from back to front again between the posts of the second and third stitches
Yarn over and draw the yarn around the post of the stitch. You now have 3 loops on the hook
Yarn over and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook, twice.
One front post double crochet (FP dc) is complete.
Seamsless way of changing color when working in the round
Pick up the new color at the end of the round: inset your hook into the stitch, yarn over the new color and pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook to complete the stitch.
INSTRUCTIONS
PART 2
HAT
Start with green color yarn. Crochet hook 2,5 mm
Rnd 1: Chain 4 stitches, join with sl st into ring. Ch3, 11dc into ring, sl st (12 M).
Rnd 2: ch3, dc in the same st as ch, 2 dc in each of next 11 sts, sl st to top of ch 3 (24 stitches)
Rnd 3: ch 3, dc in the same st as ch, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next st*, repeat from*to* 11 times, sl st to top of ch 3 (36 stitches)
Rnd 4: ch 3, dc in the same st as ch, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts*, repeat from*to* 11 times, sl st to top of ch 3 (48 stitches)
Rnd 5: ch 3, dc in the same st as ch, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 7 sts*, repeat from*to* 6 times, sl st to top of ch 3 (54 stitches)
Rnd 6-8: dc in each of next 54 sts
Rnd 9-10: ch3, *fpdc in the next st, dc in the next st*
Cast off.
SHIRT
Row 1: Chain 35 stitches, sc in each of next 34 sts, turn the work.
Row 2: chain 3, dc in the same st as chain and each of next 33 sc, turn the work.
Row 3: chain 5 stitches (counts as 1 dc and chain 2), skip next st, dc in the next st, *ch 2, skip next st, dc in next st*, repeat from* to* till the end of row, turn the work.
Row 4: dc in each of next dc till the end of row, turn the work.
Rows 5-6: repeat rows 3-4 one more time, turn the work.
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Row 7: sc in each of next 13 sts (back), cast on 10 stitches, then skip next 10 sts (armhole), sc in each of next 30 sts (front), cast on 10 stitches, then skip next 10 sts (armhole), sc in each of next 13 sts (back), turn the work.
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Row 8: sc in each of next stitch till the end of row, turn the work.
Rows 9-10: dc in each of next stitch till the end of row, turn the work.
Row 11: ch 1, sc in the same st as chain, *skip next 2 sc, 5 dc shell in next sc, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc*, repeat from* to* till the end of row, turn the work.
Row 12: ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 2), dc in the same sc as ch, *ch 4, skip shell, 2 dc separated by 2 ch stitches in next sc*, repeat from* to*, turn.
Row 13: ch 3(counts as dc), 2 dc in ch-2 space, *sc in center of the next shell, 5 dc shell in next ch-2 space*, repeat from* to*, sc in next dc, 3 dc in ch-2 space, turn the work.
Row 14: ch 2, *2 dc separated by 2 ch stitches in next sc, ch 4, skip the next shell*, repeat from* to*, turn the work.
Row 15: ch 1, sc in the same st as ch, *5 dc shell in ch-2 space, sc in center of next shell*, repeat from* to*, 5 dc shell in ch-2 space, sc in next st, turn the work.
Cast off. Weave all ends.
TROUSERS
LEGS
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Cast on 24 stitches and joing for crocheting in rounds.
Rounds 1-10: dc in each of next 24 stitches, sl st.
Cast off.
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Work the second leg the same way but don´t cast off!
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Rnd 11: chain 4 stitches, work one round over both legs (24 stitches of the first leg, sc in each of next 4 sts, 24 stitches of the second leg).
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Rnd 12-16: dc in each of next stitche around
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Rnd 17-20: ch3, *fpdc in the next st, dc in the next st*
Cast off.
FINISHING
Make a pompom and sew it to the hat.
Sew velcro fastener or buttons.
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Happy crocheting! Feel free to contact me with any questions. Thank you for stopping by and have a lovely day!
