Taking a Pattern from a Jacket

I’ll show you how to take a pattern from a jacket. It’s best to use pattern tracing film for this, but I didn’t have any left, so I cut two plastic trash bags open. If you use those too, cut them where the welded seams are, because otherwise they’ll get in the way.
The pictures from top to bottom:
Picture 1: Lay the garment as flat as possible on the table, then pin the film on top, making sure it also lies as flat as possible, as shown in Picture 2.
Picture 3: Trace the contours with a marker, making sure you always keep the correct direction. Label the film so you’ll know later which pattern piece it is.

Picture 4: When tracing the back, fold the jacket in half and pin it so that nothing can slip. The side seams should lie flat on top of each other, and at the armhole the seams should sit correctly in the curve. It’s best to pin everything, then place the film on top again, pin it down, and trace the contours.
Picture 5: Lay the sleeve down so that the sleeve seam forms a straight line; it also needs to lie flat and smooth on the table. Then pin the film on and trace the contours. For the sleeve, make sure to add a notch on the front sleeve; this is important later when sewing in the sleeve. The sleeve has two different curves: the flatter one is at the back and the slightly tighter curve is at the front. A notch should also be added at the top center. Then turn the sleeve over to the other side, leaving the film attached, smooth it out there too, pin it down, and trace the contours. Once that’s done, remove the film and lay the traced sleeve in front of you on the table, because the grainline still needs to be marked. This is usually drawn straight down from the front curve to the hem, and it is very important so that the sleeve doesn’t end up crooked, warped, or twisting when you wear the jacket. Cut out the pattern pieces neatly and you have a pattern. For the collar, you can prepare a strip; you just need to measure how wide the jacket is at the top.
REMEMBER: THIS TRACED PATTERN DOES NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCE. YOU MUST ADD IT WHEN CUTTING, OTHERWISE THE JACKET WILL BE TOO TIGHT.
Have fun trying it out

Best regards, Inge



i

Dear Inge, I immediately bookmarked your post. Since I’m now learning to sew clothes, I’m especially happy about your expert posts. I’m starting small for now and will work my way up. If I make something for myself, it’ll be a shirt to start with. And for that, I’d use one that fits me well as a template. I’ll apply your tips as I go. Oh, this topic is so exciting.

Best regards, Ina