In the garden behind the house, morning lies over the grass like a warm cloth. A small hedgehog pushes his way out of the leaf pile, his spines still beaded with dew. He pads along a narrow track, pauses when a blackbird calls, and lifts his nose as if he could read the path in the scent of the world. Beneath the apple tree he finds a piece of soft windfall, turns it patiently with his paw, and takes tiny bites, as if to thank every hint of sweetness. When the wind freshens, he curls into a ball for a breath—not from fear, but from comfort—and then pads on, past the little fly agaric, until he reaches the familiar hill of leaves. There he burrows in, leaves the day outside, and everything falls quiet..png)
Materials
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Acrylic (polyacrylic) yarn or similar (approx. 131 yds/1.75 oz):
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Beige/Cream (head/body, snout)
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Light brown (ears/arms/legs)
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Dark brown (spine mantle)
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Red & white (fly agaric mushroom)
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Green (leaf/scarf)
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3.5 mm crochet hook (match to yarn weight; choose slightly smaller for tight stitches)
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6 mm safety eyes (or embroider)
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Fiberfill stuffing
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Black embroidery thread (nose, mouth)
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Yarn needle for sewing, stitch marker, scissors
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Pins for positioning while assembling
Yarn alternatives: You can crochet the hedgehog with cotton, acrylic, or blend yarns. What matters is a dense fabric so the stuffing doesn’t show through. For a sustainable option, use recycled cotton or leftover scraps from other projects—especially the spine mantle tolerates subtle color variations and a heathered look. With any yarn, go half to one hook size smaller than the label suggests, and keep all chosen yarns at roughly the same weight so the proportions stay consistent.
Tip: yarn choice & hook size: If you crochet loosely, try a smaller hook to keep the stitches nice and firm. Stitches should be tight enough that no stuffing peeks through. It’s best to make a small swatch to check if you like the yarn–hook combination.
Measurements: With a 3.5 mm hook, the hedgehog is approximately 12 cm tall (~4.7 in).
Skill Level: Easy to intermediate – requires basic knowledge of working in spiral rounds and sewing pieces together. Loop stitches are explained.
Time Required: Approximately 4–6 hours, depending on experience.
Abbreviations (US terms)
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st = stitch
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ch = chain
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sc = single crochet
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sl st = slip stitch
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hdc = half double crochet
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dc = double crochet
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inc = increase (example: 2 sc in next st or inc in every 3rd st)
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sc tog = single crochet together (example: crochet every 4th & 5th stich together)
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( … ) x n = repeat section n times
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BLO = back loop only
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loop st (LS) = loop stitch
Notes
Unless explicitly stated otherwise, all parts are worked in spiral rounds, even if the pattern text says e.g. “3 rounds sc”.
The numbers at the beginning of each step indicate the row/round number.
The number in parentheses at the end of each step shows the total stitch count for that row/round.
Safety notes:
For children under 3 years, I recommend avoiding small parts. Replace safety eyes with embroidered eyes and sew loose décor (mushroom, leaf, scarf) on securely or omit it altogether. For decorative figures you can add a little weight to the bottom (e.g., rice); for toys, please do not add weight.
Head & Body (worked in one piece, cream/beige)
Head
MR or 2 ch
Round 1: 6 sc (6)
Round 2: inc in every st (12)
Round 3: inc in every 2nd st (18)
Round 4: inc in every 3rd st (24)
Round 5: inc in every 4th st (30)
Round 6–10: 5 rounds of 30 sc (30)
Insert safety eyes between R7/8 with approx. 7 sts between them.
Adjusting the expression: A wider distance (8–9 sts) looks calmer/more grown-up; a narrower distance (6–7 sts) looks more childlike. Before locking the eyes, tilt them slightly up or down for a natural gaze.
Round 11: sc tog every 4th & 5th st (24)
Round 12: sc tog every 3rd & 4th st (18)
Round 13: sc tog every 2nd & 3rd st (12) Stuff the head firmly.
Body
(continue without fastening off)
Round 14: inc in every 2nd st (18)
Round 15: inc in every 3rd st (24)
Round 16: inc in every 4th st (30)
Round 17: inc in every 5th st (36)
Round 18–23: 6 rounds of 36 sc (36) – stuff as you go (firmly but not overfilled).
Round 24: sc tog every 5th & 6th st (30)
Round 25: sc tog every 4th & 5th st (24)
Round 26: sc tog every 3rd & 4th st (18)
Round 27: sc tog every 2nd & 3rd st (12)
Round 28: sc tog every 1st & 2nd st (6)
sl st in next st, leave a long tail, fasten off and sew, closing the small opening as you go.
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Snout (white/beige)
MR or 2 ch
Round 1: 6 sc (6)
Round 2: inc in every 2nd st (9)
Round 3: 9 sc (9)
sl st in next st, leave a long tail and fasten off.
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Ears (2×, light brown)
MR or 2 ch
Round 1: 6 sc (6)
Round 2: inc in every 2nd st (9)
Round 3: 9 sc (9)
Flatten the piece; close the top edge with 4 sc, inserting the hook through the front loop of the front layer and the back loop of the back layer at the same time.
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Arms (2×, light brown)
MR or 2 ch
Round 1: 6 sc (6)
Round 2–6: 6 rounds of 6 sc (6)
sl st in next st, leave a long tail and fasten off.
Legs (2×, light brown)
MR or 2 chRound 1: 6 sc (6)
Round 2: inc in every st (12)
Round 3–5: 3 rounds of 12 sc (12)
Round 6: sc tog every 5th & 6th st (10)
Lightly stuff. Flatten the opening and close with 4 sc.
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Spine mantle (dark brown)
Loop stitches are used for this. Since these aren’t very common, here is a brief step-by-step guide. If you already know them, feel free to scroll down a bit :)
Insert the hook into the next stitch as if you were going to make a single crochet.
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This time, instead of catching the right-hand working yarn (as usual), catch the left strand.
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Pull the yarn through the stitch—you now have two loops on the hook, and the intended loop is resting over your finger.
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Now yarn over again (it’s tucked slightly behind the work—don’t grab the strand from the loop!)...
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...and use it to pull through both loops on the hook. Your loop stitch is complete!
You control the loop length by holding the finger the loop is wrapped around closer to or farther from the work. Aim for about 2 cm; more important is keeping all loops roughly the same length for an even look.
MR or 2 chRound 1: 6 sc (6)
Round 1: 6 sc (6)
Round 2: inc in every st (12)
Round 3: inc in every 2nd st (18)
From here on, replace every single crochet with a loop stitch—work loop stitches only until the end.
Round 4: inc in every 3rd st (24)
Round 5: 24 loop st (24)
Round 6: inc in every 4th st (30)
Round 7: 30 loop st (30)
Round 8: inc in every 5th st (36)
Round 9: 36 loop st
sl st in next st, cut a very long tail and fasten off.
Mini fly agaric (decoration)
Stem (white):
MR or 2 ch
Round 1: 6 sc (6)
Round 2–5: 6 sc each round (6)
sl st in next st, cut yarn and fasten off.
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Cap (red):
MR or 2 ch
6 sc (6)
nd 2: inc in every st (12)
Round 3: inc in every 2nd st (18)
Round 4: inc in every 3rd st (24)
Round 5: 24 sc (24)
Change to white.
Round 6: BLO: sc tog every 3rd & 4th st (18)
Round 7: sc tog every 2nd & 3rd st (12)
Round 8: sc tog every 1st & 2nd st (6)
sl st in next st, leave a long tail.
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Thread this onto a yarn needle and embroider small white dots on the top of the cap.
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Use the remaining tail to sew the stem to the center of the underside of the cap.
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Leaf and scarf (green)
Small leaf: ch 6, starting in 2nd ch from hook: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc; 1 ch-picot (made of 3 ch) at the tip, then mirror back along the other side of the starting chain. Finish with sl st in the first stitch, fasten off and weave in ends.
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Scarf: ch 30, starting in the 2nd ch from hook sc 29 back. Leave a longer tail and fasten off.
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Assembly
Start by pinning all body parts to the body. Position the feet so that the hedgehog sits well—they need to be attached fairly far toward the front.
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Attach the arms slightly angled at neck height.
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The snout sits with its upper edge centered between the eyes.
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Fold each ear in the middle and secure this shape with a few stitches, then position them vertically above the eyes.
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Now take the body’s tail end and guide it inside the piece up to above one eye. Come out to the outside there and go back in one stitch over. Bring the needle out again at the back of the neck and pull the thread gently. The eye should now pull slightly inward.
Go back in one stitch over at the neck and guide the needle inside to the upper edge of the other eye, then out there. Go back in one stitch next to it and out again at the back of the neck. Tighten just enough until the face looks evenly shaped. Secure the thread by stitching several times around one stitch at the back of the neck and knotting there (this won’t be visible later).
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Next, wrap the scarf snugly around the neck and sew it down in several spots with the tail end.
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Now add the spines. Start at the top between the ears and pin the spine mantle there so that the loops are drawn slightly toward the face.
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Then lay them slightly angled forward around the face and pin them there as well.
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Position it along the body, angled slightly backward, and when everything sits well, sew all the way around. You don’t need to sew every single stitch; it’s enough to secure the spine mantle at each pin or every few stitches.
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Finally, embroider the details. Use a length of black 6-strand embroidery thread and split it in half so the thread consists of 3 strands.
With this 3-strand thread, embroider the eyebrows, nose, and mouth.
For a cheerful expression, raise the mouth curve slightly; for a calmer look, stitch it a bit straighter. A mini nose looks more delicate if you first fill a small triangle and then lay 2–3 glossy stitches over it (e.g., with mercerized cotton).
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Do the same for the claws on the hind legs.
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Your little hedgehog is finished!
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I hope you enjoyed the pattern, and if you have any questions or run into any issues, please leave me a comment. I’m always happy to hear your feedback :)
Have fun crocheting, and feel free to check out my other free blog posts or browse a bit in my shop; you’ll find many more sewing and crochet patterns for practical makes or cute plushies and amigurumi.