DIY: Turn a Regular Bath Mat into a V-Shaped Rug for Your Corner Shower

We recently moved into our new apartment and became proud owners of a corner shower. What I didn’t know until then: hardly any mats fit such showers – and the ones you can buy are ridiculously expensive. So when I spotted a rectangular bath mat (60 × 100 cm) for about €8 at a local discount store, I grabbed one and got to work.

Materials

• 1 rectangular bath mat (washable)

• Pen, ruler/tape measure, set square

• Fabric clips or pins

• Cutting mat + rotary cutter or sharp fabric scissors

• Sewing machine

• Edge finish (choose one):

  • Bias tape (20–25 mm, pre-folded) or

  • Overlock/serger or zigzag stitch

• Optional: anti-slip coating (e.g. Sock-Stop, liquid latex/silicone) for the underside

Measuring: Shaping the V to Fit the Corner

Place the mat in front of your shower and test which size and shape you like best. If your bathroom door opens nearby, make sure it still moves freely.

In my case, I laid the mat diagonally over the shower corner and slid it around until I found the right size. I decided to cut out a 30 × 30 cm square from one corner and finish the edges neatly.

The red lines in the image indicate where the mat will be cut.

Cutting

I measured 30 cm along both edges, marked the points, and cut out the square. Since my mat had neat rows of nubs, I didn’t need to draw lines – I simply followed between two rows to cut straight.

If your mat doesn’t have visible lines or nubs, mark the shape with tailor’s chalk, a fabric marker, or even a strip of painter’s tape. Try to keep the cut as straight as possible so your bias tape or overlock finish will sit neatly later. It’s easiest to cut on a cutting mat with a rotary cutter so nothing slips.

I also shortened the long edge of the mat. Depending on your mat’s size, you can either leave it as a square with one cut-out corner or a rectangle with a corner notch. I chose the rectangle version because our towels hang on that side – this way, there’s a bit more standing space.

My mat was already finished with bias tape in a matching color. I removed the tape from the cut-off piece and reused it for the new edge.

Finishing the Edges – 2 Proven Methods

Bias tape (clean & durable)
I reused the existing bias tape, but any purchased or homemade bias tape will work.

Open the tape and place it right sides together along the cut edges on the back side of the mat. Clip in place and stitch along the first fold line. This secures the tape.

(Sew along the red line to fix the bias tape in place.)

Next, fold the tape around the edge – the middle fold should sit exactly at the cut edge. On the front side, fold the last edge inward so all raw edges are enclosed. Clip securely and topstitch close to the edge with a straight stitch, stitch length 4–5 mm. I enclosed one row of nubs inside the bias tape for a slightly padded border.

Overlock + zigzag (quick & easy)
If you don’t have bias tape, simply finish the edges with an overlock or with a wide zigzag stitch on a regular sewing machine. Set the zigzag to about 4–5 mm wide and 2.5–3 mm long. Make sure one swing of the stitch goes just off the fabric edge while the other goes into the fabric – this keeps the raw edge enclosed.

For very thick or fluffy mats, it helps to stitch around the edge twice to secure all fibers.

Anti-Slip & Finishing Touches

My mat already had a thin silicone backing, so it stayed put on the tiles.

If your mat doesn’t, you can add anti-slip yourself. Apply Sock-Stop or liquid latex in small dots about every 3–4 cm. Make sure the back is clean and dry beforehand. Keep the dots small and flat so they feel soft underfoot. You can also draw lines, crosses, or waves instead of dots – this looks tidier and spreads the grip more evenly.

Let the coating dry for 12–24 hours, then wash the mat once. Trim loose fibers and threads with scissors. In busy bathrooms, it may be worth refreshing the anti-slip coating after a few months.

Care & Durability

Care depends on your original bath mat. If you’ve added Sock-Stop or latex, wash only at 30 °C and don’t tumble dry, even if the mat was previously hot-washable.

Washing every 2–3 weeks is usually enough, or more often if needed. Reshape the mat gently after washing and dry it flat to avoid distortion. If the bias tape starts to loosen after many washes, simply hand-stitch it back down or topstitch again with your sewing machine – the edge will last through many more washes.

Done – your V-shaped bath mat is ready!

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you have questions or run into problems, please leave me a comment – and of course, I’d love your positive feedback too!

Have fun sewing, and feel free to check out my other free tutorials or take a look at my shop, where you’ll find more sewing and crochet patterns for practical projects and cute amigurumi.