Looking for a cute doll amigurumi crochet pattern? One of the most charming projects you can make is crocheting a doll Marusya. The perfect gift for anyone that loves dolls! Free crochet pattern for adorable doll which is perfect as a nice gift for someone special. It can also be used as decoration. This amigurumi design makes it a truly unique and special toy that your child will cherish for years to come.
SUPPLIES YOU NEED
Before you begin, make sure you have the following materials:
cotton yarn (e.g. Schachenmayr Catania 125m/50g) in four colors: red, beige or white, yellow and brown for the hair, crochet hook 3 mm, Polyester fiberfill or any stuffing material of your choice, 2 black beads or safety eyes, scissors, yarn needle for weaving in ends and sewing parts together. satin ribbon and lace to decorate the dress.
Using different materials and hook size to what is recommended may alter the final appearance of your amigurumi.
SKILL LEVEL
I would classify this free amigurumi crochet pattern as an advanced beginner. It is necessary to have some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.
SIZE
The ready amigurumi is approx. 28 cm high, from bottom to top, can be made bigger or smaller depending on the yarn and hook you use.
SKILLS YOU NEED
chain, single crochet, double crochet, half double crochet, slip stitch, increase, decrease, front post double crochet
ABBREVIATIONS
Here are the abbreviations used in this pattern:
Ch =chain
St = stitch
Sc = single crochet
Sl st = slip stitch
dec = decrease stitch (two single crochets together)
inc = increase stitch (two single crochets in the same stitch)
Dc = double crochet
Hdc = half double crochet
Tc = treble crochet
Rnd = Round
* = repeat the instructions for the times indicated
(...) = at the end of every round total amount of stitches is indicated
TIPS
- Do not join rounds, work in a continuous spiral
- This pattern doesn´t include any specific stitch tutorials
- Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round
- All stitches are worked into both loops, unless stated otherwise in the pattern
- When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi
- Amigurumi can be made in any desired colors.
Seamless way of changing color when working in the round
Pick up the new color at the end of the round: inset your hook into the stitch, yarn over the new color and pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook to complete the stitch.
To make a magic ring
- Loop the thread twice around your middle finger
- Put the hook under both loops, pull the yarn under the loops and hook the thread again
- Pull the thread through the new loop. The first crochet stitch is ready!
- Repeat the number of times needed.
- Pull the inner threads to tighten the ring.
INSTRUCTIONS
The doll consists of several parts which you crochet separately and then sew them together.
ARM (2x)
Start with white color yarn.
Round 1: 6 single crochets into Magic Ring.
Round 2: *single crochet in next stitch, increase* (9 stitches)
Rounds 3-4: single crochet in each of next 9 stitches
Round 5: single crochet in each of next 3 stitches, decrease twice, single crochet in each of next 2 stitches (7 stitches)
Stuff the arm slightly.
Rounds 6-15: single crochet in each of next 7 stitches
Round 16: single crochet in each of next 3 stitches, increase, single crochet in each of next 2 stitches, increase (9 stitches)
Round 17-22: single crochet in each of next 9 stitches
Fasten off. Work the second arm the same way.
LEG (2x)
Crochet with beige or skin color yarn.
Round 1: 6 single crochets into Magic Ring.
Round 2: *single crochet in next stitch, increase* (9 stitches)
Rounds 3-4: single crochet in each of next 9 stitches
Round 5: *single crochet in the next 2 stitches, increase* (12 stitches)
Rounds 6: single crochet in each of next 12 stitches
Round 7: *single crochet in each of next 2 stitches, decrease*, repeat from* till the end of the round (9 stitches)
Round 8: single crochet in each of next 9 stitches
Stuff the leg firmly.
Round 9: decrease twice, single crochet in each of next 5 stitches (7 stitches)
Round 10: increase twice, single crochet in each of next 5 stitches (9 stitches)
Rounds 11-12: single crochet in each of next 9 stitches
Round 13: *single crochet in the next 2 stitches, increase* (12 stitches)
Rounds 14-15: single crochet in each of next 12 stitches
Round 16: *single crochet in the next 3 stitches, increase* (15 stitches)
Rounds 17-18: single crochet in each of next 15 stitches
Round 19: single crochet in each of next 5 stitches, decrease 3 times, single crochet in each of next 4 stitches (12 stitches)
Round 20: single crochet in each of next 4 stitches, decrease 3 times, single crochet in each of next 2 stitches (9 stitches)
Round 21: single crochet in each of next 9 stitches
Round 22: *single crochet in the next 2 stitches, increase* (12 stitches)
Round 23: single crochet in each of next 12 stitches
Round 24: *single crochet in the next 3 stitches, increase* (15 stitches)
Rounds 25-32: single crochet in each of next 15 stitches
Round 33: *single crochet in the next 4 stitches, increase* (18 stitches)
Rounds 34-35: single crochet in each of next 18 stitches
Stuff firmly. Bind off the first leg. Work the second leg the same way but don´t bind off!
BODY
Work shift stitch every 3-4 round.
SHIFT STITCH
Sometimes during the work of the spiral amigurumi, you need to keep the work symmetrically. As work tends to twist to the right you need to adjust the position of the marker periodically (beginning of the round).
Shift stitch is an extra stitch you work at the end of a round to make your work look symmetrical. If you notice that the marker moves right, you need to work one extra stitch at the end of the round and move marker for one stitch (now 2nd stitch of the round becomes first). This is the shift stitch.
The shift stitch is not included in the round description. To check if it’s time to work shift stitch fold your work in half and check if marker still goes straight or use a yarn that marks a straight line.
You may think this is an increase, but it isn’t. This way you don’t increase or decrease the number of stitches. The stitches count remains the same.
Round 1: chain 2 stitches, work one round over both legs (18 stitches of the first leg, single crochet in each of next 2 stitches, 18 stitches of the second leg)
Rounds 2-5: single crochet in each of next 40 stitches
Round 6: *decrease, single crochet in each of next 6 stitches* (35 stitches)
Rounds 7-8: single crochet in each of next 35 stitches
Round 9: *decrease, single crochet in each of next 5 stitches* (30 stitches)
Rounds 10-20: single crochet in each of next 30 stitches
Start stuffing the body.
Round 21: *decrease, single crochet in each of next 3 stitches* (24 stitches)
In the next round attach the hands (ensure that the hands are located in the middle and make several shift stitches if needed):
Round 22: single crochet in each of next 4 stitches, 3 single crochets both through hand and body, single crochet in each of next 9 stitches, 3 single crochets both through hand and body, single crochet in each of next 5 stitches.
Stuff the body firmly.
Round 23: *decrease, single crochet in each of next 2 stitches* (18 stitches)
Round 24: *decrease, single crochet in the next stitch* (12 stitches)
Round 25: *decrease, single crochet in each of next 2 stitches* (9 stitches)
Round 26: single crochet in each of next 9 stitches
Do not bind off.
HEAD
Continue crocheting using skin color yarn.
Round 1: increase every stitch (18 stitches)
Round 2: increase every stitch (36 stitches)
Round 3: *single crochet in each of next 5 stitches, increase*, repeat from* to* 6 times (42 stitches)
Round 4: *single crochet in each of next 6 stitches, increase*, repeat from* to* 6 times (48 stitches)
Rounds 5-14: single crochet in each of next 48 stitches
Round 15: *decrease, single crochet in each of next 6 stitches*, repeat from* to* 6 times (42 stitches)
Round 16: *decrease, single crochet in each of next 5 stitches*, repeat from* to* 6 times (36 stitches)
Round 17: *decrease, single crochet in each of next 4 stitches*, repeat from* to* 6 times (30 stitches)
Round 18: *decrease, single crochet in each of next 3 stitches*, repeat from* to* 6 times (24 stitches)
Stuff the head firmly
Round 19: *decrease, single crochet in each of next 2 stitches*, repeat from* to* 6 times (18 stitches)
Round 20: *decrease, single crochet in next stitch*, repeat from* to* 6 times (12 stitches)
Round 21: *decrease* 6 times.
Fasten off. Hide yarn ends.
DRESS
The dress is worked in a single piece from the down-top. The work begins at the skirt and continues up to the bodice.
Crochet using red yarn.
Cast on 54 stitches. join to circle and crochet in rounds.
Rounds 1-8: half double crochet in each of next stitch till the end of the round
Round 9: chain 2 stitches (=1 half double crochet), *half double crochet in each of next 7 stitches, decrease (2 half double crochets together)*, repeat from* till the end of the round
Rounds 10-14: half double crochet in each of next 48 stitches
Round 15: chain 2 stitches (=1 half double crochet), *half double crochet in each of next 6 stitches, decrease (2 half double crochets together)*, repeat from* till the end of the round.
Rounds 16-24: half double crochet in each of next 42 stitches
Round 25: chain 2 stitches (=1 half double crochet), *half double crochet in each of next 5 stitches, decrease (2 half double crochets together)*, repeat from* till the end of the round
Rounds 26-33: half double crochet in each of next 36 stitches
STRAP (2x)
Crochet using red color yarn or any of your choice.
For the strap chain 15 stitches, dc in the 3rd stitch from hook and each of next 13 stitches. Work the second strap the same way
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Sew straps to the dress. Attach satin ribbon and lace.
BLOUSE
Work with beige color yarn or any color of your choice. Chain 27 stitches,
Row 1: half double crochet in the third stitch form the hoo and each of next 24 stitches, turn the work.
Row 2: chain 2 stitches (=1 hdc), *hdc in the next stitch, 2 hdc in the next stitch*, repeat from* till the end of the row, turn the work (37 stitches)
Row 3: chain 2 stitches, 1 hdc in each of next 6 stitches (front), chain 5 stitches, skip the next 5 stitches (arm), 1 hdc in each of next 15 stitches (back), chain 5 stitches, skip the next 5 stitches (arm), 1 hdc in each of next 6 stitches (front), turn the work.
Rows 4-7: 1 hdc in each of next 6 stitches till the end of the round, turn the work.
Fasten off. Sew buttons or velcro fastener on.
SLEEVE (2x)
Chain 14 stitches
Rounds 1-9: chain 3 stitches, double crochet in each of next 14 stitches,
Round 10: chain 3 stitches, 2 double crochets in each of next stitch till the end of the round.
Fasten off. Work the second sleeve the same way.
SHAWL
Crochet with red yarn or any color you wish.
Round 1: Chain 4 stitches, join with slip stitch into a ring. Chain 3 stitches, 3 double crochets into the ring, slip stitch (6 stitches).
Row 2: chain 3 stitches, 3 double crochets in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, 3 dc in the next stitch, turn the work.
Row 3: chain 3 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, double crochet in each of next 4 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, turn the work.
Row 4: chain 3 stitches, 3 double crochets in the next stitch, double crochet in each of next 6 stitches, 3 double crochets in the next stitch, turn the work
Row 5: chain 3 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, double crochet in each of next 10 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, turn the work
Row 6: chain 3 stitches, 3 double crochets in the next stitch, double crochet in each of next 12 stitches, 3 double crochets in the next stitch, turn the work
Row 7: chain 3 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, double crochet in each of next 16 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, turn the work
Row 8: chain 3 stitches, 3 double crochets in the next stitch, double crochet in each of next 18 stitches, 3 double crochets in the next stitch, turn the work
Row 9: chain 3 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, double crochet in each of next 22 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, turn the work
Row 10: chain 3 stitches, 3 double crochets in the next stitch, double crochet in each of next 24 stitches, 3 double crochets in the next stitch, turn the work
Row 11: chain 3 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, double crochet in each of next 28 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, turn the work
Row 12: chain 3 stitches, 3 double crochets in the next stitch, double crochet in each of next 30 stitches, 3 double crochets in the next stitch, turn the work
Row 13: chain 3 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, double crochet in each of next 34 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, turn the work
Row 14: chain 3 stitches, 3 double crochets in the next stitch, double crochet in each of next 36 stitches, 3 double crochets in the next stitch, turn the work
Row 15: chain 30 stitches, slip stitch in the second stitch from the hook and each of next 28 stitches, do not turn the work, chain 30 stitches again, slip stitch in the second stitch from the hook and each of next 28 stitches.
Fasten off, hide yarn ends.
ASSEMBLY
Since all the elements of your doll are crocheted, it´s time to sew them together. Use a blunt sewing needle.
HAIR
WIG
Make the wig cap first. Keep testing it on your doll´s head until it´s the size you want it.
Woking into the back loop
Round 1: 12 double crochets into Magic Ring
Round 2: chain 3 stitches, double crochet in the same stitch as chain, 2 double crochets in each of next 11 stitches, slip stitch to top of chain 3 (24 stitches)
Round 3: chain 3 stitches, double crochet in the same stitch as chain, double crochet in next stitch, *2 double crochets in the next stitch, double crochet in the next stitch*, repeat from*to* 11 times, slip stitch to top of chain 3 (36 stitches)
Round 4: chain 3 stitches, double crochet in the same stitch as chain, double crochet in next stitch, *2 double crochets in the next stitch, double crochet in each of next 2 stitches*, repeat from*to* 11 times, slip stitch to top of chain 3 (48 stitches)
Cut the yarn twice as long as the length you want. Mine are approx. 60 cm. Put the hook through the loop where you want the hair, grab a strand of your yarn and pull it through. Grab the end of the yarn and pull that through the loop.
Make two braids: divide the hair into three equal parts, hold the right section in your right hand and the left section in your left hand, leaving the middle section to hang loose. Pull the right section over the middle one, then repeat this with the left section, crossing it over the middle section. Repeat this until you reach the end of the hair. Secure the end with a satin ribbon.
The doll´s hair can be made from sheep locks discreetly hand-sewn to her head. Go in circles when attaching the hair to the head. Sew the wig cap on.
Mark where you want the eyes to be placed with pins and sew them with the distance of 3-4 stitches to the head of the doll. Embroider nose using white color yarn if desired. Embroider eyebrows with black color yarn. You can also add eyelashes and mouth. Proceed a smile using red yarn.
Hide the yarn tails.
Tie the shawl or sew it to the head of your doll. Ready!
I hope you enjoyed creating the duckling and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your version of amigurumi, to make sure I don´t miss it out, please share a picture here or on Instagram by tagging me @tansuluucrafthaus.
Happy crocheting! Feel free to contact me with any questions. Thank you for stopping by and have a lovely day!